REI Community
Wall 2
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Atlantean a-Go-Go T 
Barracudas! T 
Fantastic Coffee T 
Give Back My Walls! T 
Monsters in the Bathroom T 
Off to Work T 
Piano Lessons T 
State of My Tractor, The T 
Surfing the River (with a Boat on Each Foot) T 
What Dumb-asses! T 

What Dumb-asses! 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jeff Mahoney and Alex Lau, 9/3/12
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 529
Submitted By: Jeff Mahoney on Apr 20, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Alex Lau following on the FA and looking for the s...

Description 

Long, varied and quite fun. Head straight up the thinner crack (that gives you gear options where you want them) to the small scrub oak.

Rock Climbing Photo: The start of "What Dumbasses!"
The start of "What Dumbasses!"


Climb through the steeper pod past the tree and continue on through an easing section, aiming for the notch roof. The crux is getting over the roof. A little reachy and steep, but you can slot a good finger piece or two that will ease the mind. Finish the crack straight up, or for more value, take the diagonal crack left and finish with the nice "Off to Work" finger section. (Minimize rope drag with slings---it'll be a fight if you're only using draws, and make sure you're using a 60m rope. Very much worth the effort.)

Rock Climbing Photo: The upper section of "What Dumbasses!" s...
The upper section of "What Dumbasses!" showing the obvious notch/roof crux and the alternate finish.


Use the good oak tree 20' back from the top, along with a #4 in the crack for your anchor, or build your one in the finger crack just below the edge. Walking off to climber's left and down the gully can sometimes be faster than rapping.

Rock Climbing Photo: Alex Lau following on the FA and looking for the s...
Alex Lau following on the FA and looking for the sequence to get over the roof on the crux of "What Dumbasses."

Protection 

A rack of singles to 4" (the 4" for building the anchor, if you do the "Off to Work" finish---recommended) and a few extra finger pieces if you want to sew it up. (Tri-cams and/or some offset nuts work well, too.) Make sure you have plenty of slings---it's a long route at 160'. The roof crux takes a solid finger-sized piece (or two) to ease the mind.


Photos of What Dumb-asses! Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Plenty for the anchor on top.
Plenty for the anchor on top.
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Wing on the start of "What Dumbasses!&q...
BETA PHOTO: Chris Wing on the start of "What Dumbasses!&q...

Comments on What Dumb-asses! Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About