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What are the best sandbagged routes you can think of? Sport, Trad, and Bouldering
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Jan 15, 2013
What are some of the most sandbagged routes in the US? I was thinking Hungry for Heaven at T-Wall is a good one. Alex Dziaba
Joined Dec 22, 2011
5 points
Jan 15, 2013
Crack of Fear - 5.10d (Lumpy Ridge) Brandon Gottung
From Moab, UT
Joined Dec 23, 2010
1,401 points
Administrator
Jan 15, 2013
Quite a few between the Gunks and Seneca alone but I`m saying Soler 5.7 on the East Face, South Peak, Seneca. The new guidebook(s) will be putting it as 5.9 possibly 5.9+. Rock Jock
From Pennsylvania
Joined Dec 5, 2012
4,415 points
Jan 15, 2013
I agree on Hungry for Heaven, that thing is very 10++. Others that come to mind would be:
-Coexistence at the Gunks
-Bombs Over Tripoli at City of Rocks
-Barbeque the Pope at Smith Rock
-Jesus and Tequila at the NRG (I've heard The Racist is pretty hard, too, but have not been on it)
-Shredded Wheat, Rumbling Bald, NC
-Wiggins II at Indian Creek
-Sign of the Cross at Hueco Tanks.

Now everyone can chime in and tell me how weak I am for thinking these were hard.
camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Joined Jun 27, 2006
1,190 points
Jan 15, 2013
Circus trick at big bend. Hardest V4 ever shotgunnelson
Joined May 30, 2009
0 points
Jan 15, 2013
Every 5.9 in the McDowell range.

Or I am just weak.
Unassigned User
Joined Dec 31, 1969
0 points
Jan 15, 2013
Easy.... "False Classic Corner" in Josh. GB says 5.7.... To me it felt like 5.10.... Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Joined Mar 1, 2008
105 points
Jan 15, 2013
Kahuna Roof (V5) at Carter Lake Bob Robinson
From Lone Tree, Colorado
Joined Aug 25, 2009
220 points
Jan 15, 2013
Wait.... people care about boulder problems?

I think the most famous one in the Gunks is Modern Times. Listed at 5.8+ in the grey Dick Williams guide, but 5.10b in the (very silly) Orenczak/Lynn guide.
Jon H
From Boulder
Joined Nov 24, 2009
13 points
Jan 15, 2013
Yes to Bombs in the City! compare that to Gemini, not even close.
also Diesel Driver in Gallatin Canyon and pretty much any route that Dwight Bishop did in Butte, Homestake pass. He kept getting strong, but his grading never changed!
Ian Cavanaugh
Joined Sep 6, 2010
575 points
Jan 15, 2013
All the sport climbs on Dome Rock out by the Needles in CA. Joe De Luca
From yucca valley
Joined Oct 24, 2012
86 points
Jan 15, 2013
Tits and Beer at Looking Glass
Aerospace Cadet "
Stannard's Crack at Mt. Yonah

I've heard Shredded called 10d. Wouldn't classify it as a sandbag. How can you sandbag a boulder problem when there is not much consequence to getting in over your head.
TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Joined Jun 2, 2009
2,393 points
Jan 15, 2013
The Stoned Master wrote:
Quite a few between the Gunks and Seneca alone but I`m saying Soler 5.7 on the East Face, South Peak, Seneca. The new guidebook(s) will be putting it as 5.9 possibly 5.9+.



Really?? 5.9+? I thought 5.7 felt right on for that one. I'll concede that the first pitch is scary but not hard, and i don't remember anyting particularly difficult about the second. I'd put West Pole at more of a sandbag than Soler.
Seth Derr
From harrisburg, pa
Joined Apr 19, 2010
1,825 points
Jan 15, 2013
Umph Slot in Boulder Canyon....... 5.8.......haha Princess Mia
From Vail
Joined May 22, 2006
30 points
Administrator
Jan 15, 2013
Every noob in the nineties got tricked into jumping on the then 5.7- Captain Kronos at Josh Adam Stackhouse
Joined Jan 3, 2001
11,970 points
Jan 15, 2013
Any boulder problem with the word Bachar in the name. Rob Gordon
From Hollywood, CA
Joined Feb 2, 2009
80 points
Jan 15, 2013
Seth Derr wrote:
Really?? 5.9+? I thought 5.7 felt right on for that one. I'll concede that the first pitch is scary but not hard, and i don't remember anyting particularly difficult about the second. I'd put West Pole at more of a sandbag than Soler.


Agreed. IMO, most routes at Seneca and the Gunks
To me, the one that stands out the most is the 2nd pitch of Birdie Party in the Gunks. Listed as 10b, I thought 11-.
DylanJK
From Berkeley, CA
Joined Jan 25, 2011
80 points
Jan 15, 2013
anything climbed before 1970. Try leading Soler in Hiking boots. Love Seneca Rocks Chance Philippi
Joined May 21, 2012
300 points
Administrator
Jan 15, 2013
Most of CT's classics. Morgan Patterson
Joined Oct 13, 2009
8,157 points
Jan 15, 2013
TomCaldwell wrote:
I've heard Shredded called 10d. Wouldn't classify it as a sandbag.


Yeah, I've heard that, too, and it seems that I'm the only person that thinks Shredded Wheat was really hard. Maybe I was just having a bad day, but it totally shut me down, and I'm usually pretty good at fingercracks.
camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Joined Jun 27, 2006
1,190 points
Jan 15, 2013
Oh, and one other boulder problem (yes, boulder problems can be sandbags)-- Soap on a Rope at Rocktown. As the new guidebook says, "The hardest v5 at Rocktown. Oh, wait, it's v4." camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Joined Jun 27, 2006
1,190 points
Jan 15, 2013
Mother #1, 5.7+, at Vedauwoo.

Halfway up there were a stream of curse-words coming out of my mouth, but by time I made it to the top I was all smiles (at least once I had caught my breath and was done heaving).

I know, I know, I just need to work on my OW technique, but when I needed to work on hand crack, slab, fist crack, finger crack, etc techniques, 5.7s (or 8s or 9s) didn't feel as hard as Mother #1.
Cory Harelson
From Boise, ID
Joined Mar 25, 2008
2,330 points
Jan 15, 2013
Thunder magnolia pussy, Granite Mtn. Was a long time ago and i was a noob but it made an impression. The first pitch of the Organasm, ZNP, or any other 5.8-9 chimney with Lowe attached. Sisyphus
From Amherst, MA
Joined Dec 31, 2009
10 points
Jan 15, 2013
CaptainMo wrote:
Most of CT's classics.


I was going to say you can't trust most 5.7s in CT. I swear the 5.8s are easier.
KevinF
From Granby, CT
Joined Mar 9, 2010
0 points
Administrator
Jan 15, 2013
camhead wrote:
Yeah, I've heard that, too, and it seems that I'm the only person that thinks Shredded Wheat was really hard. Maybe I was just having a bad day, but it totally shut me down, and I'm usually pretty good at fingercracks.


You must have been off that day. I would have said you'd cruise it. Hell, I onsighted it and you've seen me climb!

Cool question though. I think there are plenty of 5.7 and 5.8 climbers who'd sayZoo View and Airshow at Moore's are a bit sandbagged. Airshow isn't much easier than the 10a right next to it. Also, the start of Super Direct is a sandbag. Once you get to 5.10 though the grades seem to get more accurate.

I remember thinking Aesthesia at the Spider's Web in the Dacks was super hard for 10a.

Zealous at the New is hard for 10d.

The first pitch on the North Face of Castleton kicked my ass pretty good, but maybe that was because we only had three blue Camalots? What is that, a 10c?

I generally think everything is soft or accurate, but every once in a while I'll admit to a route being hard for the grade.
Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,215 points
Jan 15, 2013
"Wait.... people care about boulder problems?

I think the most famous one in the Gunks is Modern Times. Listed at 5.8+ in the grey Dick Williams guide, but 5.10b in the (very silly) Orenczak/Lynn guide."

That new guidebook IS silly...Modern Times is spot on for 5.8+ in my opinion. Laurel, now that is sandbagged at 5.7...
Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Joined May 4, 2011
350 points


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