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Whale's Lip

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Whale's Lip Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: C Runyan on Sep 5, 2008
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Description 

Classic Old Rag slab, which also means you should choose your route carefully: several climbs are run out or offer thin gear placements. Some routes require two ropes to rap.

Getting There 

From Weakly Hollow, pass the Lower Ridge Slab up a steep section of trail to a small plateau of exposed rock with an eastward view (If you're coming from summit, the plateau is just past the 3-trunk tree and Bushwhack Trail for the Reflector Oven.)

From the plateau, head east down the slab and plunge into the undergrowth. Choose the trail on the left and meander to the Whale's Lip slab.

Climbing Season

For the Old Rag area.

Weather station 6.9 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Whale's Lip

Thar She Blows 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  Virginia : Shenandoah & NW VA Region : ... : Whale's Lip
Same start as Pincer Perfect but move up and left to the high first bolt from the left facing corner. Maybe stick clip it. Cruise up past 4 more bolts to the left facing flake and end the climb where it is convenient to set an anchor. This may be the best protected climb on the formation but the most difficult....[more]   Browse More Classics in Virginia

Comments on Whale's Lip Add Comment
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By Ed Wade
From: Hermann, MO
Aug 21, 2012
A better way to access the routes, especially on the left side, of the Whales Lip is to rap in, just off the Ridge Trail. When hiking up from Weakly Hollow, after you do the 3rd class scramble, you are primarily on top of the formation. Head left and locate 2 old bolt studs and set a gear anchor nearby. Rap in with a 60m (sorry I can't recall if 60m will be long enough but there are bolted routes below so if necessary use a bolt to finish the rap). You don't want to pack in 2 ropes @ Old Rag. This will put you right at the base of the best climbs. You can continue to use the anchor until you climb out for the day. Basically all the left hand routes end at that spot. A lot better than bushwacking.
By Chris Irwin
From: Silver Spring, Maryland
Jan 15, 2014
Ed, I'm pretty sure you're describing the access to lower ridge trail slab not whales lip.
By Ed Wade
From: Hermann, MO
Apr 4, 2014
The approach is after you make the 3rd class scramble on the trail. The Lower Ridge trail slab routes are after that funky corridor on the trail and before the 3rd class scramble (the only section of the trail where you have to actually climb).

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