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Whale Rider 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 185'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mike Lewis & Sara Rider
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 323
Submitted By: Mike A. Lewis on Oct 2, 2015

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Description 

This is one of the topout options that goes to the summit above Paperback Ledge. I think it is well worth the effort and adds another 1-2 pitches to the routes leading up to ledge. I have used this as an extension to White Whale multiple times with my guiding clients, and they have enjoyed it.

My guess is that someone else has done this route at some point in Lumpy's history.

Pitches: it can be done in one pitch. Breaking it up into two pitches reduces drag and offers the opportunity to take advantage of a great, exposed belay ledge with plentiful gear options, and it breaks the pitch into its natural two sections.

Location 

From the top of White Whale, look straight up and there is a 15' overhanging OW slot that leads into some black streaks, that leads left into a left-facing dihedral. The dihedral trends left and up toward a roof with a large block.

Don't be scared of the "OW" in my description. There are really nice, incut jugs to pull over the small overhang with.

The crux is about 30' up, there is a left-leaning, hand-jam/layback move that takes you over toward the dihedral.

You can end the first pitch at the top of the dihedral before breaking into the lower angled climbing above the blocked overhang. For the 2nd half - choose your own adventure up the lichened slab.

Descent: walk off to the north into the gully, curve SW with the gully, and meet back up with the trail that comes off Paperback Ledge.

Protection 

Standard rack.


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By S2k4life
From: beaver creek, CO
Jul 24, 2017

I've done this route twice in July now, and it is fun, pro is good.
Awesome moves getting off the ground and 20 feet up as well as off the ledge at 3/4 of the way up, fun way to continue up the wall a must do and way better views. Walkoff to climber's left is mostly easy.
Done in one pitch with 60m and many slings. Belay at the top is tricky. You can go to the left side, ditch the last 8 feet of climbing, and use a big tree.
Not hard 8-.

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