REI Community
Pacific Ocean Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.10b Toprope TR 
California Coast 
Dirty Thoughts T,TR 
Dizzy Dial S 
Native Rights T 
Superstitious S 
Whale Nation S 

Whale Nation 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Doug Lafarge, Tim Wilhelmi and Richard Ludwig, 1980's
Page Views: 1,248
Submitted By: Zacharias Gustav on Jan 20, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Making the second clip on Whale Nation.


Balancy slab on bomber rock with nice edges. Finishes halfway up the wall. Whale Nation Continuation (5.12c TR) can be set up at the top of the cliff.


To the right of Dizzy Dial.


6-8 bolts youl be able to count them from the ground

Comments on Whale Nation Add Comment
Show which comments
By Lurker
From: Westwood
Apr 22, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

7 bolts for the direct start, 8 bolts if you traverse in from the right off the boulder. Excellent route with a spicy mantel move to gain the anchors. Might want to stick clip 1st bolt.
By Jeremy Humphrey
Jun 30, 2014

Is there a guidebook for this area?
By Taylor Morrow
Jul 28, 2014

You can also place a bomber purple TCU right before you mantle to the anchors, to help with runout.
By Evan Wisheropp
Mar 3, 2015

Great route! I second the stick clip, otherwise traverse in from the boulder. The slab and overhanging jugs were really fun. I used a blue TCU for the mantle.
By Evan Wisheropp
Mar 6, 2015

Has anyone here done the Continuation recently? There appear to be a lot of freshly broken holds that seem to have flaked off. The two cruxes felt a lot harder and than expected. Another route to work up to!
By Nick Black
From: Arcata, CA
Nov 28, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Fun route, using the purple tcu at the top is a good idea.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About