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Wet Willies 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Cam Burns, Paul Fehlau
Page Views: 770
Submitted By: George Perkins on Sep 16, 2007

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If it's wet, this climb will give you the willies, with lots of lichen on this slabby face.

The first crux is just past the 1st bolt, requiring thin moves on sharp holds. The last crux is at the last bolt, which can apparently be passed in a few ways. In between these is continuous climbing at the 5.10 grade the whole way, with a few rests.


Start just left of the giant boulder leaning against the cliff.


7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

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By Shirtless Mike
From: Denver, CO
Sep 17, 2007

This is the first route I have bombed. A better name might be "Wet Loose Lichen Nightmare" Maybe I just don't climb on shitty rock enough. There were loose timebombs all over this route. At the start I used a few giant flakes, after they moved I quickly decided not to use them (cleaned very easily while lowering and are now laying on the ground). In the middle the climbing isn't hard but you are well above your bolt on creaking handholds and licheny footholds. At the top the climbing again gets harder but the holds don't get anymore solid. I finished up the unknown quality flakes and remember it being mildly terrifying.

Hopefully the 20 minutes of cleaning my partner gave this route afterwards improved the quality slightly.
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 18, 2007
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This route definitely has more moss and lichen on it than years past. Lots of moisture up there this year!

I noticed the freshly cleaned chunks at the base the other day! Thanks for doing that. There's a natural "distinction line" in my mind (hard to describe--not a crack per se) between decent rock on the right (the bolt line area) and really spooky rock on the left. I've always done my best to avoid the rock on the left and haven't had trouble with rock quality on this route.
Near the top where the route appears to naturally go straight/left into the "unknown quality flakes" I've always clipped the last bolt, moved down just a bit and made thin frictiony moves right to better, more enjoyable rock (and big holds!). I was shown this way the first time I ever climbed it and never thought about going towards the unknown quality flakes straight/left. Try it, you might like it! :-)
By Shirtless Mike
From: Denver, CO
Sep 26, 2007

Looks like I will have to give this one another try.
By J J
From: Edgewood, NM
May 30, 2010

Those "unknown quality flakes" are definitely about to let go. Majority of the climb is pretty free from loose stuff, but the lack of traffic has it spitting out little pea sized rocks the whole way up. Last summer and this summer it has been pretty dry, but there is definitely a high lichen content down low from the boulder next to it and the fact that it faces north.
By Bill Czajkowski
From: Albuquerque, NM
May 25, 2015
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Excellent slab route. Crux at the bottom but you can clip the first bolt before you really get into it unless you're shorter than me by that much. I didn't find any problems with loose rock though there is a lot of lichen on the lower part that gets a lot of shade.
By Chuck Calef
Sep 3, 2017

In August 2017 Darien did a lot of wire brushing and gardening on Wet Willies. The route is now in fine shape. We've climbed it several times and find little loose rock. The upper crux (beyond the final bolt) can be done straight up the seam (hard), out left of the seam (harder and neckier) or by hand traversing right as Jason describes above. This is a continuously challenging and excellent route.
By Andrew B. Ellis
Sep 4, 2017
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I was pleasantly surprised by this route today and found it quite good. A nice, but hard v1+ problem between bolts 1 and 2 (well protected) followed by enjoyable 5.10 climbing of varying difficulty for several bolts that is broken up by good rests into a tough v3- problem at the final crux. I sussed out the three options as you listed and ended up going left - the others looked just as hard but not as obvious to me. I will have to give them a go next time I get on this.

Definitely a quality route! Thanks for putting in some time cleaning it up!

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