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k. The Slime Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
April Showers T 
Back to the Future (AKA JAP) T 
Blue Stink, The T 
Bragg-Hatch T 
Climb and Punishment T 
Comedy In Three Acts T 
Coprophagia T 
Falled on Account of Strain T 
Frustration Syndrome T 
Golden Showers T 
Hooky T 
Kligfield's Follies T 
Last Frontier T 
Moondance T 
Pressure Drop T 
Raindance T 
Simple Suff T 
Stand, The T 
Sticky Gate T 
Sticky Gate with Direct finish T 
Sundance T 
Tangled Up and Blue T 
Techno-Suff TR 
That Thing T 
Wasp T 
Wet Dream T 

Wet Dream 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R [details]
FA: Clune, Gruenberg, Freeman, Raffa
Page Views: 194
Submitted By: akline on Aug 5, 2015

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Description 

Follow the seam to a stance below a blank-looking face (crux: lots of body tension, a mono pinch, a committing move and a cool head are required to stay off the deck), follow to overhang and clear it at a short right-facing corner. Pull the roofs to the right of Falled, and end at a fixed rap station.

Location 

Start just left of the direct start to April Showers at a short left-facing block two feet off the ground and under a seam that about ten feet up makes a very long "S" shape. Also, 14 feet right of Falled on Account of Strain.

Protection 

The gear in the initial horizontal seam is small, but good. Then you pull the crux moves above this gear while looking at a groundfall until you get to the jug after the crux, and plug good gear for the face up to the final roof moves, which are also a little spicy to protect. Standard rack plus a few small C3s.


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