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4. Wonderland Wall
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Weston's Syrup 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Chris Magness, Jason Magness & Dave Weston
Page Views: 82
Submitted By: chinos on Jun 11, 2012

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Description 

The climb starts just right of the obvious flake system. Climb directly up the slab face past 2 bolts to a short easy corner with marginal gear. Move up to the overlap and clip a bolt. Make nice delicate moves up to a horizontal under the roof and clip a bolt above. Pull the fun roof to a ledge with a bolt anchor.

Location 

Just right of the big flake

Protection 

Standard Rack


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By chris magness
Jun 23, 2012

There are two lines here, a traverse under the roof and a direct finish. The traverse under the roof is called Short Stack and the direct finish is Weston's syrup.

Short Stack climbs past three bolts to the roof, crux at a shallow overlap at the third bolt, and traverses left under a second roof to join a finger crack back right. Probably .10 a/b. Jason Magness, Chris Magness

Weston's Syrup pulls the second roof directly passing one additional bolt. .10+ if you figure out the beta, into the .12 range if you don't.
Chris Magness, Jason Magness, Dave Weston

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