|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 14 pitches, 1650'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||Ferdinand Glueck, et. al. 1920|
|Season:||Warmer weather and dry rock.|
|Submitted By:||Rodger Raubach on Oct 14, 2013|
|Comments on "Westkante," Glueck Arete.||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Robert Hall
From: North Conway, NH
Jul 31, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
A very nice route. The Kohler-Memmel guide "Classic Dolomite Climbs" calls it the "North-West Arete of Torre Firenze", and speaks about "some belays equipped with bolts" but the only bolts we saw (2006) were at the top of the 2nd pitch and neither the party ahead of us, nor we used them. I think, just because they weren't in a particularly useful place. With the increase in bolting since then, I would have no reason to doubt the belays have now been equipped. Once we got on the route, and especially above P3, I would just run out until I saw a quick-to-set-up belay, preferably one that didn't use pieces from my limited rack (e.g. a spire or solid boulder to sling) and stopped to belay there.
My recollection is 98% of this route is 5.4 or easier; My notes on the topo list 1 5.2 pitch, 1 "5.2-5.3" pitch, and 7 5.3 pitches. On the whole 11-12 pitches there really were only two moves (not pitches) worth talking about: one crux came about P3 or 4 and was a thin crack in sort of a flaring corner. I gave it a 5.6 / 5.6+, good pro.(I'm a bit confused by the description of the crux given in the DESCRIPTION. Maybe it was a flaring corner through an OH and I forgot the OH'ing part...???)
Somewhere higher there was another semi-crux protected by a gold (#2) Camalot. My "PG-13" rating is for the 5.3 - 5.4 stuff, and even there I guess if you wanted to you could get in good pro; we were just cruising along.