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Western Harlot 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 338'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jamie Chong, Ben Groundwater, Alex Wigley, Conny Amelunxen
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,169
Submitted By: AlexWigley on Oct 5, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Western Harlot Topo

Description 

P1: 25m, 5.7, 6 bolts
Follow the faint arrete after the blocky start. The crux is just below the anchor.
P2: 30m, 5.9, 11 bolts
Get to the fault and inch right looking for holds as it gets steeper. Easier above.
P3: 28m, 5.8, 8 bolts
Work your way up to the rest before the crux. Left or right here? Belay next to the old stump.
P4: 20m, 5.3, 3 bolts
Up the blunt ridge with amazing views. Bring a picnic for the top.

CAUTION: Consider this climb a mountaineering route. Always wear a Helmet. There is still rockfall potential.

Location 

Follow the cairned and flagged path toward Centurion. About 75m before reaching that climb the trail forks and the Western Harlot trail switches back up and right. Following the rough trail aim for the gully on the right of the formation. Continue along the base of the rock up the rope past the amazing 5.14(?) crack. Above the rope trends left. The climb is around the corner from the giant tree.

Rappel the climb. One rappel anchor is just left of the second climbing station.

Protection 

60m rope, 11 quickdraws, anchor material.


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By CLamb
Sep 8, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

My wife and I heard about this route from a local and decided to check it out. I did a recon run in the early morning to make sure we could find the crag and the route. It was foggy and wet at the time so a little bit hard to get the overall lay of the land once I got to the boulder field. But I did find it ok. Here are a few comments about the beta to the area:

When you get to the boulder field you're going to look for cairns and you'll be angling mostly left and slightly up. The final cairn you want is a tall one with a cross made out of sticks. Once you get there, continue left for Centurian and right for Western Harlot. You'll continue to follow cairns up to the top of the boulder field and then you'll follow flags after the last cairn with a flag in it. It's pretty straightforward and I thought the approach beta was all pretty straightforward.

We then both went back a few hours later for the actual climb, so I did the approach twice in one day, one without gear and the other with gear. Don't do this climb unless you are pumped up for an adventure (and I say that in a positive way). The length of the approach is half of the aesthetics of this route. The scenery is beautiful before you even start the first pitch. It's even better as you go on up the route.

The bolting was A+. New hardware, well placed, and even a chain for the second draw on P2 since the hanger was such that a biner would lay against the rock the wrong way without the chain. The cruxes were all well protected. The rap stations well done. The route had been cleaned very well.

P1 was wet when we got there, but not too bad. A nice warmup and fair at 5.7. Interesting moves as 7's go.

P2 was dry. I got through the crux which is in the first 5 or 6 bolts. Enjoyable moves and the holds were all there. I thought 5.9 was an accurate grade.

P3 was fun, albeit an interesting crux. 5.8 or 5.9 depending on how well you like delicate slab climbing. If there's ever enough traffic on this route to polish some of it, this crux will be a bit harder.

P4 was essentially a walk up with more than adequate protection.

The raps were well constructed and fine.

We both thoroughly enjoyed the route. Thanks to the crew who put in all the hard work and hardware to develop this thing. It was a great piece of work and we appreciate your efforts. We had a great time doing this and thoroughly recommend it to others.

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