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Notch Peak
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Appetite for Destruction T 
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Western Hardman T 

Western Hardman 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 12 pitches, Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Aaron Weaver, Duncan Murray
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 13,787
Submitted By: Duncan Murray on Nov 11, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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To the best of my approximation, this is the line ...


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Photos of Western Hardman Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The approach from the start of the 11th pitch
The approach from the start of the 11th pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 11- protection is just fine.
Pitch 11- protection is just fine.
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Culberson (Resident Notch Peak Expert) finish...
Matt Culberson (Resident Notch Peak Expert) finish...
Rock Climbing Photo: Beginning the Godsend pitch
Beginning the Godsend pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Wyatt coming up to the 5th pitch belay
Wyatt coming up to the 5th pitch belay
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the 1st pitch
Looking down the 1st pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Good Gear, Good Cracks, Even GOOD ROCK! on Western...
Good Gear, Good Cracks, Even GOOD ROCK! on Western...
Rock Climbing Photo: The exit gully you use to head up to the climb fro...
The exit gully you use to head up to the climb fro...
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Aaron at the top. Yes its very dark, and don't let...
Aaron at the top. Yes its very dark, and don't let...
Rock Climbing Photo: The awe-inspiring view of the upper North face fro...
The awe-inspiring view of the upper North face fro...
Rock Climbing Photo: Aaron moving on pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: Aaron moving on pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: End of Pitch 9. The traverse left is interesting. ...
BETA PHOTO: End of Pitch 9. The traverse left is interesting. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The bottom of the climb.
BETA PHOTO: The bottom of the climb.
Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying from the top of "The Godsend Crack&q...
BETA PHOTO: Belaying from the top of "The Godsend Crack&q...
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo 3
Rock Climbing Photo: All belays/rap stations are super-bomber!
All belays/rap stations are super-bomber!
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt on Godsend
Matt on Godsend
Rock Climbing Photo: The exit gully up to the climb occurs literally ri...
The exit gully up to the climb occurs literally ri...
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo 1

Comments on Western Hardman Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 8, 2015
By Duncan Murray
From: Salt Lake City
Nov 13, 2006

I gave this climb 3 stars out of 4. I think it is because it really has some fun pitches, but remember the name of the route says it all. Are you a HARDMAN?
By James Garrett
Nov 19, 2006

so, who did the FA? Aaron and CJ or Aaron and Duncan? Cheers,
By James Garrett
Nov 19, 2006

I vote for 4 is classic or will be soon!
By Duncan Murray
From: Salt Lake City
Jan 26, 2007

James, Aaron and CJ practically built the route together over a long period of time, however the last two pitches were not “officially” completed and bolted until he and I climbed the whole thing in a day. I think that was the first time the route had been free climbed from top to bottom, probably because CJ would have a hard time following some of the pitches as he rarely climbs much, if at all, these past few years. Great guy just loves biking and other outdoor activities. So these two guys, especially Aaron, deserve props for being dedicated enough to work so hard on this route.

Phil, I believe there are only 2-3 really hard pitches, the Godsend is my favorite pitch of all, and I rate it at about 5.10d maybe 5.11??? full-trad, sorry I’m not the greatest rater. I barely got it, as crack it not my forte, but so beautiful it was! Pitch 9 was hard to follow around the traversing left section, I couldn’t have imagined leading it, but I believe Aaron added another bolt there when we were there rapping the route last Nov. 2006. Then pitch 10 is a hard one too, Aaron led that one and he puts it at about 5.10d. The other pitches are 5.8 - 5.10-.
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Mar 8, 2007

Sounds like a good route and what a location. How does this compare to Book of Saturday? (rock quality, seriousness, etc.)
By James Garrett
Mar 18, 2007

As mentioned previously, I enjoyed this route immensely. It was easier for me. I led every pitch on this route whereas I shared the climbing on BOS. Though serious, it is perhaps less serious than BOS, though those are always personal feelings. What are your hesitations? Do you just want to do the easiest Notch Peak route for your first time in the area, or are you asking something else. BOS is probably more "R" than WH....maybe why I liked it so much. Some people will describe everything in the West Desert as a choss heap, but you may treasure an ascent of Western Hardman combined with La Fin du Monde as the most significant thing you've ever done in North America...certainly in Utah. It is at the pinnicle of adventure climbing in my book.

I forsee a day soon when somebody like Dean Potter will free solo all the routes in a day and then jump off from the summit of Notch Peak and glide into camp in Sawttooth Canyon for a BBQ. I hope I am there to drink some corn with him to congratulate him!!!
Good luck...get after it, dude.
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Mar 19, 2007

No hesitations, I'm just curious to know how it compares to Book of Saturday. When I climbed Book of Saturday last year I immediately wondered what the other routes were like but I know relatively little about them, other than information from the American Alpine Journal. I thought Book of Saturday was great and I'd like to complete some other lines on Notch. I think my question in part comes from my experience with our local limestone/quartzite in which some is great and some is absolute choss. When climbing Book of Saturday, I wondered how other routes compared to it. And, I agree with you, even after spending extensive time climbing in the desert Southwest and the Black, I think Notch is probably tops when it comes to adventure climbing in the U.S.
By James Garrett
Mar 21, 2007

Right on. Sounds like you have a lot of great days in the House Range to look forward to. It is also very cool that you like it so much that you are driving all the way from Colorado to climb on Notch Peak. That is significant because you certainly have plenty of walls close to home. The lack of rules, other people and noise as well as the atmosphere out there seems to be a magnet for you as much as me. Western Hardman seems a bit better protected and I wouldn't necessarily give it an R rating as is the case for Book of Saturday. I think the name comes more from a King Crimson song than the Saturdays it required to put it up. All FA parties of those routes out there deserve kudos....think labor intensive and committment. Aaron Weaver has around here on his other routes in Utah the reputation for meticulous cleaning and preparation and intelligent placement of bolts. He sure proved that on WH.
By Duncan Murray
From: Salt Lake City
Mar 23, 2007

I agree with you guys, Aaron and C.J. definitly put some real time and thought into Western Hardman and I was lucky enough to be an FA and I wish CJ would get back into climbing and kickass so he can do the climb he helped put up.

As for Dean soloing it... Um, I got no beef with soloing, i understand if a personal choice and I usually leave it at that but to solo a route with that rock quality is just dumb or crazy, I don't know which but the looseness it just way too risky for a solo, no big while roped, but yeah, probably gonna have some disagree-ers on that statement, but again I guess it that personal thing. Just always like to know good guys make it and live! Never like to loose a good guy (or gal) to anything especially climbing.
By Duncan Murray
From: Salt Lake City
Mar 23, 2007

PS... So when Aaron and I went back there after I broke my wrist, we couldn't obviously climb it, and so we did the huge walk around to the top of it, and half way there, we looked up and saw a bird, a plane, nope a base jumper in a gliding sut and barely got that shoot open to get over the lip at the bas of the canyon! 1 second away from getting a photo, but not fast enough. He was like 100' above us, or so it seemed. Sweet to be right under!!
By matt steward
Sep 17, 2007

Kudos to the FA party! This route clearly took a lot of work and is thoughtfully equipped - great effort! I found this route to be far less intimidating than the other on the Howe Wall - Appetite for Destruction (from which we bailed after a nasty fall). The godsend pitch and the 10th pitch (cool face moves to a finger crack) are very fun and the position and exposure are fantastic. We linked P1& P2; P3 & P4; and P7 & P8. I think it would be reasonable to link P5 & P6 (godsend pitch) but we broke those up. The upper pitches don't lend themselves to linking. A 70m rope was handy on the raps as some of them are pretty close to the end of the line. We pared the rack down to doubles from .3 camalot to # 2 camalot, (1) #3 camalot, (1) #3.5 camalot, optional #4 camalot - and that seemed like plenty. We didn't use any nuts. Due to the good quality of the topo and anchors, we managed to climb the route in 6 hours, and rap in a little less than 2 hours - 10 hours car to car. We were hustling a bit as we had a canine friend waiting. Again, job well done to the FA crew. Thanks for all the beta.
By notmyname
From: Sandy, UT
Oct 13, 2009
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Just did this route having to import my partner from the PNW. I felt it was extremly well protected and the grades were not sandbagged in the least. The only jingus pitch was the 1st 50 feet of pitch two, but everything else was tons o' fun. You definitely don't need to be a hardman or woman. I felt the triples on the rack recommendation was a bit much, but the godsend pitch has a bonus final section that requires one last large cam (a 3.5 or 4) and a couple hand sized pieces you can put in the face. Don't bother bringing nuts. The previous rack rec. was spot-on.

The 2nd to last pitch is well protected, so i guess that the bolts were added.

We walked off via the ledge sytem to the B.O.S. rope ladder since rapping 13 pitches never seems like fun. The walk off is very casual but takes just as long i'm sure. Careful on the talus, but it's not as steep as it looks via a cross-chasm view.

I was wondering on the 70m single rope rap. How do you get off the godsend pitch with just one rope? It's 50meters and the intermediate pitch bolts are chopped.
By Scott McLeod
Jun 29, 2011
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Wow, what an outstanding route. Gorgeous country, amazing solitude, such a magnitude of rock, and empty. Amazing. Western Hardman is great. I think this route has matured like a fine wine. I found the climbing to be quite moderate, with the two cruxes coming in at 5.10, no harder. There was very little loose rock, solid gear, solid stone, solid bolts. All in all, it was great.

We took one 70m, rapped the whole way. Which works just fine for the Godsend pitch. It is worth being heads up for every rappel, I used an autobloc to keep it extra safe. And Matt's rack is perfect.

Definitely 4 out of 4 stars, you just don't get this anywhere else. For those who are interested, I think this is an excellent "intro" to Notch Peak, and all in all the rock quality is better than BOS.
By jakobi
From: moab, utah
May 4, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I agree that the cruxes of the climb weigh in at no harder than 5.10, the rock was more solid than we were expecting but there was still a sense of treading through a pile of nachos in some of the sections. We linked pitches 1&2, 3&4, 5&6, 7&8 with a 70m no problem and topped out the route around noon. I would recommend a second rope but only rappelling on one, the raps are cleaner that way but having another rope might be a good idea considering all the many features on the wall that could ensnare your line. Also we found the gear recommendation to be a little excessive, If I were to do it again I'd bring a single set of cams from fingers to a #4 Camalot with extra's in .75, 1, 2, and 3's a set of stoppers. Lot's of runners are a great idea especially if you wanted to link pitches. Amazing route, much thanks for the FA party for their creativity and effort in establishing it.
By jayci
From: Flagstaff
May 8, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This is an amazing area! Great climb and more moderate than expected. If your expecting a Black Canyon style 5.11 then you will have no problem taking another route to the top of the peak. All in all a great route.
By Mark Engibous
From: SLC, UT
Jul 21, 2012

Is it feasible/thinkable to climb this route now? Hot as hell but north facing eh? Any ideas as to the temp on the wall in the shade?
By Keelan Johns
From: SLC, UT
Jul 22, 2012

Go for it. We were up there yesterday and the temps were perfect!... until it started pouring rain/hail and thunderstorming on us at the top of pitch 9 around 3:00pm (20% chance my arse). That made for a fun, and fast, rappel. Bring sunglasses as the wall gets sun in the morning and mid day.
Go with the lighter rack as people have said and link pitches. We linked 2/3 and 3/4. No problem rapping from pitch 9 with a 70.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Sep 11, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun adventure climb, its in the shade all day early September. If you didn't get enough thrills earlier in the route, a 5.9++ variation for the last pitch up the right facing corner directly above the 2nd to last pitch is possible. At the little roof at the top of the corner I'd had enough so I traversed out left about 15-20 feet to another corner that led to the top. If this hasn't been done before I'd like to call it the Western Dumbman variation, since I should not have made the mistake. Going straight up where I traversed left looked possible also - that would be the Western Braveman variation!
By Ouray Badger
Sep 12, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

When all else fails, read the directions, eh Stan. Sorry to say that I didn't think this was a very memorable route. Not bad, but just ok. Book of Saturdays is better. And no way it's 10d. I'd say 10b/c. However, the alternate finish is full value. Good job Stan.
By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
May 20, 2013

We did this thing mid may. Conditions couldn't have been better, but the weather deteriorated on our hike to the fin.

The route is great, low commitment, well protected above 5.8. I did a really dumb man variation on the second to the last pitch. Into a very loose corner and face far left. The pitch above the last rap looks good too.
It is possible to do a tyrolean type rap for the second from the top. Speeds matters.
10C is probably a better grade
By Scott McLeod
Jun 10, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Had another great day on WH this weekend. We were going for speed and found that we were able to link P1 & P2, P3 & P4, P5 & P6, P7 & P8, and even P9 & P10. I was happy to find that with thoughtful use of gear and runners, 9 & 10 actually went with very little drag. I would love to link from 10 to the top.

In the interest of moving on to the upper wall of Notch Peak, has anyone ever climbed the mellow looking ridge to the summit rather than going around the corner to pitch 11 & 12?
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Jun 23, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

10/12 pitches are 5.8/5.9. The only 2 pitches at 5.10 are Godsend and the bolted 10th pitch, both of which are the best pitches on the route. Fun route, not one that will make your top 10 list, but certainly worth your time and effort. Wild and remote climbing with only moderate amounts of choss. Easily rappelled with 1 70m rope. Pitch 11 was the only pull that seemed pretty draggish. Well bolted and good gear most of the way! Link as many pitches as you can, minus the last two to save time. Plan on 1:15 minutes for the hike up there. Perfect temps in late june.

Gear: doubles .3 to #3 camalot, 10 runners, 10 qd's. no nuts, no small cams, #4 camalot not needed at all. The wide section of Godsend is easily protected with small cams and a #3 camalot. Don't lug it up there.
By Joe Forrester
From: Palo Alto
Oct 15, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Agree with previous posters, this felt pretty soft for 5.11, but overall totally awesome route. Did this october 12th, and it was cold and in the shade all day. Be prepared for chilly temps climbing this time of year. Overall, excellent route. Casually linked 1+2, 3+4, 8+9 with 70m rope.
By John Robinson
From: Elk Grove, ca
Aug 1, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Climbed this July 2014 with Steve Curtis. Register said only 4 parties before us in 2014. You will get sun for a while in the morning when climbing this time of year but it didn't create a problem. I suggest a 10b rating. I'm not bold or a very good crack climber but led the crux pitch clean so it's probably not 5.11. We used a single 70m rope and the raps were fine. Maybe even a 60m would work?? I would suggest a small rack with only singles to #2 Camalot. Bring a bunch of draws. Don't think you need any nuts. (but you do need balls). The Belay station for pitch eleven kinda sucks. I suggest a couple bolts under the first bolts of pitch eleven. There is a bolt on the left side of the "hanging canyon" but I don't like using a single bolt for a belay and it seemed like there would be a lot of rope drag if belaying at that single bolt. After the traverse around to the beginning of pitch 11, I set up a belay in some overhanging crap and in a corner. I shouldn't complain because it was a safe belay but all the other belays on the climb were great except for this one.
By Eric and Lucie
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 8, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

OK, so this is mostly a choss pile with only a small amount of interesting climbing.

Both crux pitches are excellent, and the mini-arch pitch is fun too. The rest varies between horrible and barely OK, largely due to hollow rock.

The approach is remarkably easy though (we didn't time it but 1:15 sounds about right), and the area is unique and beautiful. The topo on this page is excellent and accurate.

The route is very well protected throughout. My recommendation for a rack: single rack from #0.3 to #4 Camalot, a small set of nuts and hexes, and doubles from #0.75 (green) to #3 (Blue). We placed nuts and hexes several times.

The rap descent is the worst part of the day. The guidebook suggests that there is a walk-off option but gives no details. I would HIGHLY recommend researching that option. We learned about it the day before so had no time to find out, but we should have.
Otherwise [pitch numbers per topo on this page]: all raps reach easily with a single 60m, except pitch 10 (face crux; probably OK with a 70M?), and 6 (crack crux; I think you need two ropes regardless since the intermediate anchor has been removed). Don't try long raps (skipping anchors)... you'll get your rope stuck, or worse. Also, the last anchor (Pitch 12) does not have rings, but slings through solid bolts. Might be worth installing rings on them if you want to bring some.

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