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West Twin Butte

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Beach Areas, The 
Cemetery, The 
Devil's Thumb 
Genetic Wall 
Planetarium, The 

West Twin Butte  Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 4,393'
Location: 34.83254, -111.76932 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 11,025
Administrators: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: climnron on Feb 4, 2007
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Leah Sandvoss on Moonjuice (5.11c), Upper Beach, C...

Description 

This area covers the upper formations and lower cliff bands left of Chapel Road. For reference, the right side of the lower cliff band is the Mission to Mars area. The Devils Thumb is a small tower on the left side of the cliff band that is easily seen from Hwy 179 and is just above the Genetics Wall.

Getting There 

For Mission to Mars area, park on Chapel Road (see M2M description). For the Genetic Wall you can park on Chapel Road, as per M2M, and hike the trail until below the cliff. A better approach, however, is to take 179 north past Chapel Road. Take a right on Pine and then another right on Pine Knolls Rd. Park at the trail head at the Cul De Sac. Please drive slow and be respectful of the residents. Hike the trail for about 1/2 mile. The trail up to the cliff is about 15 feet before the first electrical box that you see on the right (west) side of the trail. Follow cairns up the ridge until it takes you into the drainage. Up the drainage past a tree and then take a hard right. Go up the ridge to the base of the cliff.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.4 miles from here

43 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',5],['5.10',14],['5.11',10],['5.12',10],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in West Twin Butte

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for West Twin Butte :
Scallop   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   The Beach Areas : Lower Beach
Corona   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Beach Areas : Upper Beach
Hangnail   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   Devil's Thumb
Calm Water   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Beach Areas : Lower Beach
Reef Shark   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   The Beach Areas : Lower Beach
Muppets in Space   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Planetarium
Starship Trooper   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   The Planetarium
Space Cowboys   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Planetarium
Sun Dogs   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 35'   The Planetarium
Red Sky   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Beach Areas : Upper Beach
Typhoon   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Beach Areas : Lower Beach
Moon Juice   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Beach Areas : Upper Beach
Red Lizard   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 2 pitches, 130'   The Cemetery
Dangling Monkey   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   The Beach Areas : Upper Beach
Do The Bosco   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Planetarium
Lunar Lander   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Planetarium
Just my Imagination   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Planetarium
Mission To Mars   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Planetarium
Gravitational Pull   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   The Planetarium
Galactic Hitchhiker   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Planetarium
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in West Twin Butte

Featured Route For West Twin Butte
Rock Climbing Photo: thomas blasting off

Mission To Mars 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  Arizona : Sedona Area : ... : The Planetarium
Best 12d in Arizona. Short vertical section gets you to a ledge for a rest. Then blast off up steep rock on good holds. Great moves all the way to the anchor. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Arizona

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