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West Tower - Southwest Face 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: K. Karlstrom & S. Baxter (1970s)
Page Views: 92
Submitted By: Derek Field on May 13, 2017

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Southwest Face, Chimney Rock

Description 

The 4-5 inch wide crack splitting the southwest face of Chimney Rock is an old-school blue-collar thrutch and a great example of 5.9 offwidth from the 1970s.

The most direct line from the ground climbs a chossy stembox to reach the first major ledge. Walk to the back of the ledge and enter the chimney - you have the option of taking a finger crack (left) or heaving over a large chockstone in the chimney (right). You can get a #3 cam below the first roof before things get wide. Longsleeves and tenacity highly recommended.

Just below the summit there are many options for a gear belay. Rappel (70m rope) from chains down southwest face.

Location 

Obvious 4-inch offwidth splitting the southwest face of Chimney Rock. Approach via Chimney Rock Trail. 15-20 minutes

Protection 

Doubles: 4 and 5 c4 camalot
Singles: .5 to 3 c4 camalot (mostly for gear anchor)
Couple TCUs if taking the finger crack


Photos of West Tower - Southwest Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading the offwidth. Photo taken from first ledge...
Leading the offwidth. Photo taken from first ledge...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bean inching past the final bulge. The battle at l...
Bean inching past the final bulge. The battle at l...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nate Heald rappelling down the southwest face.
Nate Heald rappelling down the southwest face.

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