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West Side Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ceres S 
Juno S 
Pax S 
Stimula S 
Titus S 
Vulcan S 

West Side Wall Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kurtis Anderson on Jun 2, 2014
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A "short" hike to The Arena. Hitting Pax...

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Description 

L->R:

A. Pax, 10-, 1p, bolts.
B. Juno, 10-, 1p, bolts.
C. Ceres, 10-, 1p, bolts.
D. Titus, 10+, 1p, 75', bolts.
E. Pollux.
F. Stimula, 12, 1p, 65', bolts.
G. Vulcan.
H. Romulus.
I. Bacchus.

To be edited in.

Getting There 

Now for the fun part - this is the most remote crag at Devil's Head, which some consider excessively remote in the first place. You have to hike all the way to the top and then back down the other side. Altogether, the hike is probably about 2 miles, and it's not flat. Consider yourself warned.

The best way to find it: hike to the firetower. Drop down into the near valley and attempt to follow cairns downhill. At the first junction in the cairns (which is a choice between digital tower or the crag ranch), take a left toward the Crag Ranch. At the next cairn junction, take a right toward HangDog Cafe. From Hangdog Cafe, follow the cairns down hill to the Shaft. From the Shaft, follow cairns uphill 200 yards to the Arena.

A second trail (beginning from a pull-out parking spot on Rampart Range Road just below Radio Tower) pushes east along the southern-most point of Devil's Head. You will fork right, past a sign for Wipeyur Buttress, swinging around to the southern most point of The Arena - if you follow the not so well-beaten path, you should end up just below the West Side Wall.

WARNINGS FOR THIS APPROACH:

1. This southern path to The Arena has yet to see a lot of traffic, so take your time and follow cairns set up to guide you - it's easy to lose to the trail. With less traffic, there is also a lot of loose gravel. Wear hiking boots, as tennis shoes can be a PITA!

2. Once you get to the bottom of The Arena.... The steep approach to the West Side Wall is very tricky to navigate when it is damp. Best to save this for a dry day. There is a bald section of rock that makes for a not-so-fun water slide when downclimbing. We found that one out the hard way.

Climbing Season

For the Devil's Head area.

Weather station 7.2 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',5],['5.11',0],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in West Side Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for West Side Wall:
Vulcan   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Titus   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
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