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West Side - Excalibur Area

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Excalibur T 

West Side - Excalibur Area Rock Climbing 

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Location: 42.12457, -113.67246 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 505
Administrators: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dan Lay on Apr 25, 2016
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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING MORE INFO >>>


Afternoon sun, pretty secluded, a few good routes.

Getting There 

Walk around the south end of Castle Rock on the old roads, skirting around to the west side.

Climbing Season

Weather station 14.1 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For West Side - Excalibur Area
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux roof

Excalibur 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  Idaho : Castle Rocks : ... : West Side - Excalibur Area
Originally claimed to be 5.11b, but very doubtful, more like 5.12.Beta according to Guide book:Pitch 1: Start in splitter crack to cave belay (70').Pitch 2: Climb roof crack (20'). Pitch 3: Climb wild arete on bolts (30'). My beta: Pitch 1: Start on easy slab that works into a dirty thin crack with shrubs that you must climb through. Once past the shrubs, it's clean climbing on thin fingers up the left side into the cave. Instead of making a gear anchor here, keeping going twenty more feet past ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Idaho

Comments on West Side - Excalibur Area Add Comment
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By Dan Lay
Apr 29, 2016
There are other cool 5.10 routes on this wall, but you can thank the admins for deleting them.
By Mike Engle
From: Pocatello, Idaho
Apr 29, 2016
Dan, I didn't delete the routes and not sure which admin did but I did notice that your route entries were very short on practical information, you had copied out of date info from the guidebook and more to the point had you climbed the routes you would know, for example, "New Arrival" has new bolts plus a chain anchor at the top.

Fixing your entries was on my 'to do' list but I didn't get to it before they were deleted.

Maybe you can re-submit the routes with up to date info? I've climbed both and they are worthy.
By Dan Lay
Apr 29, 2016
Ya know what's great about MP, vague descriptions get built up by other climbers. When I'm out climbing and I open up the MP app, any beta works to get me in the general area. Once I climb the uncommon route, I add beta. I just figured someone else on MP that has climbed it, would help this website out. That's the goal of MP,is it not. With MP being so popular these days and guidebooks being more archaic, one must wonder why there are so many routes in that great location that aren't published..

Thanks for responding Mike and I appreciate you as an administrator trying to add beta to the route guide no matter how vague. Whoever deleted them, did not even ask if I was finished adding beta. Hopefully this person learns how to do their volunteered duty. I've been a member of MP for almost 9 years and have contributed a lot to MP. I would be honored to be an administrator and fix beta on route guides.

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