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West Shoulder T 

West Shoulder 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b

   
Type:  Trad, 250'
Original:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b [details]
FA: Unknown - climbed by Preston Rhea 7/9/2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 299
Submitted By: Preston Rhea on Feb 18, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: West Shoulder - Route starts extreme right and goe...

Description 

The route follows the path of least resistance up the west shoulder of Mammoth Rock. It offers a fun alternative to the short and easy scrambles up the southern side. The rock is not very good and would be hard to lead, but if you are comfortable soloing roughly 4th class terrain over loose rock, this route may be for you.

Start at the obvious ramp system about a third of the way up. It is a stair-like break in otherwise steep face. This is the start of the route. From there, follow the path of least resistance trending to climber's right. A few awkward moves are encountered, but never more than a move at a time. Once on the summit, descend by heading south towards the saddle between the Sherwins and Mammoth rock to downclimb the southern face by either the South Chimney (2nd Class) or the South Face (3rd Class).

Location 

To find the route, start at the mine at the base of Mammoth Rock and continue straight up towards as if climbing up and behind Mammoth Rock. As you are skirting the western shoulder, look for an obvious ramp system about a third of the way up. This is the start of the route.

Protection 

The rock is limestone/marble and very broken. To protect it, I would recommend: small cams to #1, nuts, and a pin or two. Pro is questionable though and you are better off leaving the rack and rope at home.


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By Derek Field
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 23, 2016
rating: Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c X

Fun, but be careful: its a pretty spicy route, with three sections of tricky low-5th moves on nightmarish rock with high consequence. Pro is useless, it's gotta be a solo.

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