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West Rock Crack 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: FFA: Leif Peterson
Page Views: 1,960
Submitted By: Morgan Patterson on Oct 8, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: The obvious crack.


The finest legal crack in New Haven. Start on the deck and fire the crack (Ball Nuts/micro placements/stacked nutz) straight through to the top. When the crack fades work some moves over/up to the anchor. Originally, ATX Aid Crack.

Easier Variation: Known as the 10 Crack is the obvious beautiful crack that splits the large slab face to the right of That 70's Show. From the ledge, stand on the block to the left and work right into the crack several feet off the deck.


Gear to 1"

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By T Roper
Oct 11, 2013

the anchor is fine considering you can rest and place gear before running it to the anchor
By Morgan Patterson
From: CT
Oct 11, 2013

I need to get some slippers
By Dan Griffiths
Oct 21, 2013

The start from the deck is hard. Possibly upper 12 range, but I've never seen anyone do it. However, someone with skinny little fingers will cruise it with nice little finger locks. From the block to the left, the first couple moves are every bit of 10+, probably more like 11a/b...and the pro is real small there.
By Leif
Apr 6, 2014

I sent the direct start to this a couple years ago. Protected the first moves by stacking some itty bittys. It is strenuous. 5.11 maybe but only for a couple moves. Fun route!

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