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West McMillan Spire
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West Ridge T 

West Ridge 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b PG13

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2000', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b PG13 [details]
FA: Fred Beckey 1940
Season: summer
Page Views: 154
Submitted By: Jade Ajani on Sep 29, 2016

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Goodell Creek Access Closed MORE INFO >>>


Take the Goodell Creek approach (gaining ~5000 ft. via steep brushy hiking) to Terror Basin. Good bivy spots here. From Terror Basin traverse along rocky benches, cross the outlet of a large glacial lake and climb slabs and snow until on Terror Glacier below the McMillian Spires. Ascend the glacier toward a steep snow/ice gully which allows access to the West Ridge. It's a mellow 3rd-4th class scramble up scree and talus to the exposed summit block.
Descent: reverse the route


Terror Basin on the south side of the Southern Pickets


crampons, ice axe

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