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West ridge T 

West ridge 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 14 pitches, 1300', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 115
Submitted By: Colin Winter on Jul 30, 2014

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Pitch 12, crux of the route


A classic moderate of the region, and a decent alternative to the heavy traffic on the south ridge of the Salbitschijen.

The terrain varies betwen nicely exposed pitches and long sequences of scrambling.

See the filidor guidebook "Plaisir-ost" for a topo.


The start of the route is a few meters from the base of the ridge on its south side. There's a bolt just off the deck marking the start.

At several places, it is possible to bail with a rappel down the south side of the ridge. From the top, scramble down the east ridge a few hundred feet, following a series of prominent cairns, to a rap anchor. A single rap down the south face gets you on the ground, where you can traverse back to the base of the climb.


There are bolted anchors and a mix of bolts and pitons of varying quality along the way and at exposed positions where there is no opportunity to place gear. A small complementary rack should suffice.

Photos of West ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Midway in the route
Midway in the route
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch one
Pitch one
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch three
Pitch three
Rock Climbing Photo: West ridge in the late afternoon sun in high summe...
West ridge in the late afternoon sun in high summe...

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