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Pitch 12, crux of the route
A classic moderate of the region, and a decent alternative to the heavy traffic on the south ridge of the Salbitschijen.
The terrain varies betwen nicely exposed pitches and long sequences of scrambling.
See the filidor guidebook "Plaisir-ost" for a topo.
The start of the route is a few meters from the base of the ridge on its south side. There's a bolt just off the deck marking the start.
At several places, it is possible to bail with a rappel down the south side of the ridge. From the top, scramble down the east ridge a few hundred feet, following a series of prominent cairns, to a rap anchor. A single rap down the south face gets you on the ground, where you can traverse back to the base of the climb.
There are bolted anchors and a mix of bolts and pitons of varying quality along the way and at exposed positions where there is no opportunity to place gear. A small complementary rack should suffice.
West ridge in the late afternoon sun in high summe...