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North Guard
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West Ridge of North Guard-The parapet ridge T 

West Ridge of North Guard-The parapet ridge 

YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4000', Grade III
Original:  YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c [details]
FA: ???
Season: summer
Page Views: 594
Submitted By: justin dubois on Aug 8, 2009

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North Guard from the east


This route climbs the long beautiful West Ridge of North Guard from the sphix lakes. Its a classic Sierra scramble, complete with towers and gendarmes that must be negotiated along the way.

The majority of the climbing is 4th class, but as you approach the summit, it gets much more interesting...
Id be foolish to describe the actual route-finding, choose your own adventure!!!


Start at Sphinx Lakes, head straight up and scramble through talus to gain the toe of the ridge-Follow it!
descend via the gully,just below the summit, towards Brewer(south)
There is a col that one must cross back to the North east, to reach the Sphinx lakes Cirque, Do not mistake the drainage before you as Sphinx(they look very similar)



Comments on West Ridge of North Guard-The parapet ridge Add Comment
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By justin dubois
From: Estes Park
Aug 8, 2009

a short vid of our climb
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Aug 30, 2009

Thanks for posting Justin.

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