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Mt Carillon
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SouthEast ridge Direct T 
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West ridge Direct T 
West Ridge indirect T 

West Ridge indirect 

YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1000'
Original:  YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a [details]
Page Views: 27
Submitted By: kenr on Aug 21, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: looking straight up the West ridge of Mt Carillon,...

  • Access limited from May to October every year MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Scrambling up to a nice summit, with the option of more difficult interesting moves or exposure. Nice views out to both sides of the ridge.
    Approach is rather long (though interesting and spectacular in itself), so think about combining this with other routes.

    Makes a nice add-on after doing the East ridge of Mt Russell. Or in the downward direction as a connection between climbing up the SE ridge of Mt Carillon on the way to climbing the Mt Russell E ridge.

    Starting near the Russell-Carillon col, head E up the ridge toward the summit -- avoid difficult sections by moving down onto its SE side (climber's right) or over onto the S-SW face.

    descent: Scramble down a little somewhere on the S or SW side, soon reach talus and sand. Hike S on sand to meet approach route.

    Permit required: This route (or at least its normal approach + descent) require a USFS wilderness permit for either single-day or overnight use. The permit can be requested in advance in January, or sometimes permits are available the day before by walking into the Mt Whitney Visitors Center just south of Lone Pine - (only available at this center, not at any other USFS centers along the Eastside Sierra).


    The summit of Mt Carillon is at (lat long ~ N36.59242 W118.27794) - (altitude 13,552ft / 4132m).
    The start of the climbing is a bit east from Russell-Carillon Pass (lat long ~ N36.5915 W118.2817) - (altitude ~ 13250ft / 4040m)

    ... (If not coming from the Mt Russell East ridge) ...
    Russell-Carillon pass can be reached from Whitney Portal trailhead by hiking up the Mt Whitney Trail (past the Carillon Creek turn-off) to the signed turn-off for North Fork Lone Pine Creek (N36.5869 W118.2453). Turn Right onto the (unofficial) North Fork trail and hike with some serious scrambling sections (full 3rd class), generally W up to Lower Boy Scout Lake. Continue up generally East toward Upper Boy Scout Lake, with some serious talus scrambling, then some slabs. But before reaching Upper B.S. Lake, near Clyde Meadow at about (N36.5815 W118.2678), turn Right off the trail and head up NW, perhaps at first a short ays through some bushes, then on sand. Gets steeper later, then WSW on gentle sand up to the Pass.


    No fixed anchors or other gear. Type or size of Trad protection which might be used is unknown. Anyway the difficulties are very short and mostly avoidable.

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