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West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Cut Above T,TR 
Android Tilt T 
As We Liked It T 
Bat, The T 
Between the Cracks T 
Blackout T 
Born Under Punches T 
Bushwack Crack T 
Chock Suey T 
Chockstone T 
Cornerstone TR 
Fade To Black T 
Fading Light T 
Friends in High Places T 
Ice Nine T 
Jericho T 
Joke Crack to Superstone T 
Knight's Move T 
Laughing at the Moon T 
Ministry of Fear T,TR 
Modern Defense T 
Muscular Dystrophy T 
Prince of Darkness T 
Purple Haze T 
Red House T 
S&M T 
Sirens of Titan T 
Speakeasy T 
Superstone T 
Sylvia's Bush T 
Tilt Right T 
Whiplash T 

West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu Rock Climbing 


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Location: 39.93325, -105.28897 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 20,430
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006
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Clipping the blind nut placement at the crux...

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  • Description 

    This is the top most section of the West Ridge. It arbitrarily extends to Xanadu since it is a well-known, easily-identified route. This section is the most breezy, most airy, highest in altitude, and longest to reach. Count on at least a 30 minutes approach. However, on a spring or fall day or in the mornings on a summer day, this stretch of stone is hard to beat for setting close to the Denver Metropolitan area. If there were a place to camp in Eldorado Canyon, this might be the place. It's worth the walk.

    Some may call this section of the ridge, the North Buttress. It does seem somewhat distinct from the rest of the West Ridge. Descents off the top can be done generally going left to the gully between The West Ridge & Rincon.

    Note, there is still loose rock in sections here. Consider a helmet. Don't forget good judgment. If you come play here, you may be smiling for days.

    There are many fine routes in this section of the West Ridge. Routes here vary from 1 to 3 pitches in length. These include: the fun Knight's Move, 5.7; the devious Purple Haze, 5.9; the varied Chockstone, 5.10a - don't short-change yourself with only 1 pitch; Laughing at the Moon, 5.10b; the exquisite Prince of Darkness, 5.11a; the technical Jericho, 5.11c; Wild Turkey, 5.11c/d s; the impressive Ministry of Fear, 5.11d vs; among others.

    This is a traditionally-protected area so bring your rack if you visit this section.

    For you history buffs, there is an interesting story about how the bold, Alec Sharp spent a sleepless night prior to firing off his intimidating Ministry of Fear in the old publication Bolder Boulder. Many of us ordinary folks with real jobs might spend a sleepless night before putting up a 5.9 s or 5.10 s route.

    Again, it's worth the walk.

    Getting There 

    Approach is dependent upon the depth of the creek, the section of wall you wish to climb, the parking available, and your desires for the day. You can approach the top of the ridge by parking at the W end of the park, hiking up the Eldorado Canyon Trail, take the turn off for the Rincon access, then boulder hop the talus, and cross to the Rincon. Then angle down a short way to the top of the ridge. You can approach the lower part of the ridge by parking at the Milton Boulder, wade the stream or boulder hop (Aug-ish to May-ish) to the base of the ridge and ascend. Finally, you can approach the lower part of the ridge by parking at the E end of the park, cross the bridge, hike on the trail paralleling the creek, and traverse the slippery 3rd class ramp around to the base of the West Ridge. Note, this last traverse is intimidating for small kids and particularly green partners. Then, you hike along the trail at the base of the W face of the West Ridge to your desired route.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 0.3 miles from here

    32 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',1]
    ['<=5.6',1],['5.7',3],['5.8',2],['5.9',3],['5.10',12],['5.11',9],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu:
    Bushwack Crack   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches   
    Purple Haze   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   
    Sirens of Titan   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
    The Bat   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Chockstone   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 165'   
    Friends in High Places   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   
    Born Under Punches   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Fading Light   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   
    Laughing at the Moon   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
    Whiplash   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
    Between the Cracks   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Prince of Darkness   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch   
    Muscular Dystrophy   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches   
    Superstone   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu

    Featured Route For West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bob Shire rests before pulling the second crux (ro...

    Born Under Punches 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13  Colorado : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : West Ridge - part E - top t...
    Locate the West Ridge North Buttress area favorites, Chockstone and Purple Haze. If you don't know where these are, go ask the line of top-ropers or cued up lead parties because they are on them. (You can also refer to the on-line directions to those routes.)On the right-hand side (facing SouthEast) of the Chockstone Buttress there is a huge, right-facing dihedral formed by the intersection of the buttress and the main wall. This is about 50' to the Right of [[Chocks...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

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