West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 6,687 ft |
GPS: |
39.93239, -105.28874 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 112,535 total · 514/month |
Shared By: | Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This is the second highest section of the West Ridge. It arbitrarily extends from Xanadu to Pony Express, since these are well-known, easily identified routes. This section is the most crack-rich section of the ridge. As a result, it has a different feel than most of the rest of The West Ridge. Count on at least a 25 minutes approach.
Note, this section includes some of the loosest sections of the ridge in a section referred to as "The (sic) Construction Zone" by some.
Most routes in this section are single pitch in length. However, recent development have pushed routes into the upper stretches of a section referred to as "The Rotten Wall" by R. Rossiter in his well-received guidebooks. Some of the better lines here include: the intimidating Duh Dihedral, 5.6; the delightful Positively Fourth Street, 5.9+; Xanadu, 5.10a; the fun Hand Crack, 5.10b; the hidden gem Variation to Mail Ridge, 5.10; Sooberb, 5.10c; the fun Zip Code, 5.11b; the demanding Parallels, 5.11b s; the delicious Terminal Velocity, 5.11b/c s; the amazing Bit by Bit, 5.11c/d; the technical Foxtrot, 5.11d s; among others.
To approach this area, you park at the W end of Eldorado Canyon State Park, hike the Eldorado Canyon Trail to the Rincon Trail, boulder hop across the talus and drop down and right to this section of the ridge. It may be more enjoyable to hike up the base of the West Ridge via stream crossing at Milton Boulder or hiking from the East end of the park. Time-wise, it's probably close either way.
Most of these routes is use descents of rappelling. Walkoffs will generally be time-consuming in this section of the ridge.
Note, there is some loose rock in the area.
Note, this section includes some of the loosest sections of the ridge in a section referred to as "The (sic) Construction Zone" by some.
Most routes in this section are single pitch in length. However, recent development have pushed routes into the upper stretches of a section referred to as "The Rotten Wall" by R. Rossiter in his well-received guidebooks. Some of the better lines here include: the intimidating Duh Dihedral, 5.6; the delightful Positively Fourth Street, 5.9+; Xanadu, 5.10a; the fun Hand Crack, 5.10b; the hidden gem Variation to Mail Ridge, 5.10; Sooberb, 5.10c; the fun Zip Code, 5.11b; the demanding Parallels, 5.11b s; the delicious Terminal Velocity, 5.11b/c s; the amazing Bit by Bit, 5.11c/d; the technical Foxtrot, 5.11d s; among others.
To approach this area, you park at the W end of Eldorado Canyon State Park, hike the Eldorado Canyon Trail to the Rincon Trail, boulder hop across the talus and drop down and right to this section of the ridge. It may be more enjoyable to hike up the base of the West Ridge via stream crossing at Milton Boulder or hiking from the East end of the park. Time-wise, it's probably close either way.
Most of these routes is use descents of rappelling. Walkoffs will generally be time-consuming in this section of the ridge.
Note, there is some loose rock in the area.
Getting There
Approach is dependent upon the depth of the creek, the section of wall you wish to climb, the parking available, and your desires for the day. You can approach the top of the ridge by parking at the W end of the park, hiking up the Eldorado Canyon Trail, take the turn off for the Rincon access, then boulder hop the talus, and cross to the Rincon. Then angle down a short way to the top of the ridge. You can approach the lower part of the ridge by parking at the Milton Boulder, wade the stream or boulder hop (Aug-ish to May-ish) to the base of the ridge and ascend. Finally, you can approach the lower part of the ridge by parking at the E end of the park, cross the bridge, hike on the trail paralleling the creek, and traverse the slippery 3rd class ramp around to the base of the West Ridge. Note, this last traverse is intimidating for small kids and particularly green partners. Then, you hike along the trail at the base of the W face of the West Ridge to your desired route.
Enjoy!
Enjoy!
Classic Climbing Routes at West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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