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West Pillar Direct 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 700'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Alan Bartlett
Page Views: 2,640
Submitted By: Mathew G on Jul 23, 2013

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Description 

Right above the second belay station there is a 15' 10b lieback. West Pillar Direct meets back up with West Pillar at the 3rd belay station, right before the traverse left.

Location 

Similar to West Pillar, but go straight up during the second pitch rather than towards the right for the West Pillar.

Protection 

Old piton at second belay station.


Photos of West Pillar Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The first three pitches follow the wide crack up.
BETA PHOTO: The first three pitches follow the wide crack up.
Rock Climbing Photo: view of the 2nd pitch from the belay
view of the 2nd pitch from the belay
Rock Climbing Photo: Straight up the wide. Stay left of the prow for th...
Straight up the wide. Stay left of the prow for th...

Comments on West Pillar Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By Laine Christman
From: Reno, NV
Jul 24, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The belay in the corner below the crux is shady. Froze my a$$ off while my partner sent it. Moral of the story, lead it, don't follow it. The crux is short and sweet but is right at the start. If the leader blows it, they are coming down to the belay ledge, so be heads up.
By revans90
Jun 20, 2015

The offwidth and stemming on the first pitch is really fun(if you enjoy that sort of thing) made easier by knobs and takes hand size gear in back(number 4 is handy). Belay on top of the offwidth at a stance with pins/gear. Climb up from the belay on hand cracks and flakes, continuing up a crack to set a belay on the ledge. Pull a short 5.10 lie back into hand jams, belay on top of the hand crack and the start of 3rd/4th class. The 3rd/4th class is super fun, work up and left then over to the other side and belay below a corner at a ledge. two options straight up into the knobby offwidth/stem or go left around the corner and up angling cracks. Finish on the regular route.
Standard rack + #4BD.

I liked this climb almost as much as the Third Pillar.
By Rude Boy
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 12, 2016

P1 - sustained 5.9 up the wide crack. You can stay on the outside for some of it but it does require some mandatory offwidthy skills higher up to gain the belay ledge.

P2 - Stay left for the direct variation. Sustained 5.8 hand cracks. mmmmm.......hand crack!

P3 - 15 feet of 5.10- right off the belay to gain the ridge then run it out on 5.easy as far as you can. Nice views!

P4 - 3rd class to 5.easy. Wind your way up and left around a pillar up into a corner. Many options here.

P5 - Many options. Choose what you like to the top. I stayed left for some tremendous exposure and 5.8 rib wrestling. You can go strait up for some more 5.9 offwidthy goodness.
By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Jul 14, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

P3-easy moves for 10b
P5-left variation (5.8) is best described as awkward, off-balance
By neha.khurana
Sep 8, 2017

Super fun route! We made the mistake of climbing too early - DO NOT do this. We had numb fingers and toes for the first couple pitches. The first offwidth pitch isn't too bad, can mostly stem around with a couple mandatory sections. The 10b layback/finger crack was pretty mellow although the feet are slippery. None of the cruxes on this route are sustained. Would recommend scrambling up and taking the Cathedral trail down instead of the slab descent.

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