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Northwest Buttress T 
West-Northwest Face T 

West-Northwest Face 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 700', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tyson Taylor, Emily Hodson, Lise Crawford
New Route: Yes
Season: Alpine
Page Views: 824
Submitted By: Tyson Taylor on Aug 22, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Approximate route in yellow.

Description 

With most of the good stuff on the higher pitches, be prepared to scramble a bit through the first half. Rope drag can be a pain as the first couple of pitches wind through various ledge systems until you reach double finger cracks about half way up. The line becomes more obvious and direct from here on out.
Mind the loose rocks and the vegetation. There's a real falling rock hazard to the belayer beneath the chimney sections. The belay requires a helmet. Keep your attachment point long enough you can steer clear of falling debris.

The whole thing can be done in 3 and a half pitches with two 60 meter ropes, running near full length.

Descent: Scramble down the westernmost south gully(4th class).

Location 

This route starts maybe 100 feet to the right of the Northwest Buttress. Aim for the diagonal chimney to the right of the arete. The good stuff starts after a pitch or two of 5.6 climbing/ scrambling up to some finger cracks set about 8-10 inches apart at the base, splitting up to 4 feet at the next obvious belay. Continue to a nice belay beneath the chimney roof. Ride the chimney to the top.

Protection 

Bring a standard rack including nuts and camming units from small fingers to fists. I found myself wishing I had a double set of medium nuts. Bring plenty of slings/runners as the rope friction on the early pitches can be a drag.


Photos of West-Northwest Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Emily and Lise cruising up the last pitch.
Emily and Lise cruising up the last pitch.

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