|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches, 500'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||FA: Tom Frost, Bill Feuerer (1959) --- FFA:Pat Ament (1971)|
|Submitted By:||Bryan G on Dec 23, 2011|
|Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on West Face||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Christina Freschl
From: Berkeley, California
Nov 12, 2014
If you are looking at the Reid guide for more information, be careful if rappelling down the right side of the pinnacle. You will need two 70m ropes to get down. The two rap stations are brand new. Beware of the second rap. I advise bringing your rope down with you, because there is a rope eating crack on the face below. If you look into the crack, there are at least 5 cut lines in there.
It might be a good idea to rap the route.
From: South Lake Tahoe, Ca
Nov 16, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
|Did this route last week with a Camp 4 buddy. Awesome climb! I lucked out by getting all the good pitches (1, 3 and 5). I was definitely caught off-guard by the squeeze chimney on top of Pitch 5, but struggled through it and basked in the glory of the top of the Pinnacle. We decided it would be more efficient to rap the route (we were the only ones there). All anchors have been replaced and are stamped with a comforting ASCA stamp. Very well protected, very fun. No evidence of large rockfall on this route, either. Do it.|
By Ryan K.
Mar 21, 2015
|Great climb. Most of the pitches, while short, were full value for their grade. The 10.a hands last pitch was particularly stout. Save energy for it.|
From: Boulder, CO
May 4, 2015
Just a word of warning about rock fall on this route:
My friends and I were racking up at the base of this route, last Sunday (May 3rd 2015) when a football sized rock detached from underneath the huge arching roof, smashed down onto the wall right around the 2nd anchors and exploded into smaller pieces that came raining down on us near the base.
My friends managed to run away from the wall in time while I hid into the wide crack right where the route starts. A couple of smaller pieces of rock, a few inches across, landed about 3 ft away from where I was standing.
Needless to say, we packed up our stuff and left pretty quickly.
I don't know if this was just unlucky timing or if rock falls are very frequent on this wall (although, judging by the amount of "fresh" looking rock on the ground I would be inclined to think the latter may be true).
In any case, I just thought I'd let other climbers know about this. Had we been standing at the 2nd anchors when that rock fell, we would almost surely had been hit pretty badly.