|Type:||Trad, 20 pitches, 1800', Grade IV|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA:||FA 1967 TM Herbert & Royal Robbins FFA 1979 Ray Jardine and Bill Price|
|Submitted By:||David Trippett on Nov 19, 2007|
|Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on West Face||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Apr 14, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
P3 is extremely slippery, watch yerself!
I still have to free this bad boy, climbed like a demon on the lower part, but the funky "J-Tree" pod pitch (P8) spit me off. I also seem to recall using /discrete/ rope tension on the 10d "near the top" pitch.
By Ryan Curry
Jul 7, 2008
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Climbed this route yesterday so I thought I'd add my 2 cents.
p1: 1st bolt is old Leeper (yellow alien just below it), second looks newer. Crux is thin face climbing to the right of bolts. Second half of pitch is protected primarily by fixed pins and a very old bolt.
P2: a good bolt protects the initial moves into a thin arching crack with some fixed gear. The crack ends as you move on to tricky face moves that felt like solid 5.10. A bit runout here.
P3: Fun 5.10a corner to cruiser 5.8 corner.
P4: This pitch is short and basically moves the belay up and left to facilitate access to the next pitch. Look for old slings to mark the belay.
P5: Great exposed 5.10a move to juggy 5.8 crack. Ends at a comfy ledge.
Crack selection is not an issue here; that is more of an issue higher up.
P6: The crux. Slippery, steep and exposed. With a few fixed pieces and a bunch of small cams and wires this protects well. Link this pitch with the next pitch in the Reid guide. 70 meter rope mandatory.
P7: This pitch, at 5.11c, is rated the same as the previous pitch but felt much easier. Short and powerful, punch through to good jams on overhanging rock. Mantle on to a ledge with five old bolts as an anchor.
P8: Wild traverse right on good holds with somewhat sporadic pro. Be sure to protect your follower on the downclimbing section. Bring the bigger cams on this pitch. We used both a #4 friend as well as a #4 camalot.
P9: The routefinding crux for us. Traverse on thin 5.10 face right. Pass an off-route crack, go further right to a 5.8 crack that passes through a 5.10a roof. When in doubt on the traverse go further right than you would think.
P10: 5.10b moves to start lead to a super fun crack/face jug haul.
P11: Hyper-exposed 5.7 angling traverse on a huge block leads to an inobvious 5.8 crux. Fairly short pitch. Belay low enough to start the next pitch on a featured face traverse.
P12: Traverse easily (5.6) to a fist crack. Up this thuggishly utilizing face holds to a very large ledge.
P13: Clean hand to finger crack (5.10d) leads to a thin (5.10c) face traverse protected by a funky, but seemingly solid, pin. Continue up the corner all the way to Thanksgiving ledge. This is a linked pitch. Be sure to use long slings down low or ropedrag can be a real problem. 70 meter rope is mandatory to link.
P14 and beyond: Move belay to the far left end of the ledge. Climb up a 5.6 corner. The pitches above get progressively easier until you are fourth classing it to the top.
We fixed pitches 1 and 2 and found that a 70m rope reaches the deck from the second belay. Also, be sure to bring a lot of thin gear (black aliens, 00 tcu). They won't go unused.
By walker emerson
May 14, 2012
Just wanted to add some info for anyone looking to do the west face.
On pitch one a new bolt has been added to protect the crux as well as on pitch two at the beginning of the crux. New bolts have been added at the belays up to pitch 5 I think. above that are the same old relics.
By Luke Stefurak
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 9, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
All anchors up to P7 (before the long traverse right) are two 3/8" bolts and setup for rappel. The P3 anchor is the only exception which is a slung block attached to a single new bolt.
The midway "anchor" on P6 has been reduced to one bolt with a long sling on it. Please don't remove the sling/cord so you can clip early, or pull past if aiding.
The jumble of 1/4" bolts on the P7 ledge have been removed.
As Walker noted there is a new bolt protecting the crux on P1. There is a 1/4" bolt right below.
The 3rd bolt on P1, that Ryan mentions, has been upgraded to a 3/8" bolt.
This route has great anchors, good ledges and challenging climbing. Go for it!!
We brought 1x green C3 3x Red C3 and then doubles to #2 Camalot, a single #3 Camalot plus nuts. Good to have lots of alpine draws for all the pitons. This rack is overkill for a lot of pitches but I placed everything on the 70m pitch 6.
Sep 29, 2013
|On the second pitch: There were two nice-looking pitons (I'm not sure if these were retrofitted) protecting the funky face/dihedral section after the initial section off the anchor. Does anybody have information on those pitons? Or are those original?|
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Mar 27, 2016
|Ohhh my Buddha! Just did this route, late March 2016, and it was truly an epic and educational experience to say the least. Long approach, which is made much more grueling with haul bags,essentially every single pitch was seeping with water (some even mistakable for waterfalls) and the slippery wet exposed third class top out was most terrifying (with haul bags on back)! The 11c pitches were pretty stout, had to pull through gear on most cruxes. The traversing nature of this climb calls for loads of lowering out skills of followers and haulbags, can be time consuming. To make life much simpler I would totally recommend doing this route in a day if possible. CLimbing is climbing though and overall it was still fun as biscuits!|
Mar 29, 2016
Wow, this climb was pretty intense! Super fun, but pretty grueling if you have a haul bag.. Calls for a lot of lower outs for the bag. There were two big long traversing pitches which took a long time, wasn't expecting that..
And SuperTopo calls the last pitch 300ft of 5.3 fun! However, Be prepared for 1000ft of 5.3-5.7 slab which are soaking wet depending no when you do this. The long and never ending slabs at the top benighted us on top of el cap!
Such an adventure! Get to the cool bivy on pitch 11, so sick!