REI Community
West Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
411 Southwest T 
A Bridge Too Far T 
Astro Glide S 
Avalon T 
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad T 
Bloodguard T 
Blotter is my Spotter T 
Brokedown Palace T 
Burning Down the House T 
Buster Cattlefield T 
California Dreaming T 
Carl's Face S 
Carol's Crack T 
Dead Point T 
Deadwood Express 
Deli Express T 
Digital Extraction T 
Double Feature T 
El Matador T 
Fractal T 
Harkness variation T 
Jerry's Kids T 
La Vaca Solitaria T 
Lack of Enthusiasm S 
Livin' the Dream T 
Man Without a Planet T 
McCarthy West Face (Variant) T 
McCarthy West Face/Hong T 
Mr. Clean T 
Mystery Express S 
No Holds for Bonzo T 
One Way Sunset T 
Park Politics T 
Scottfree T 
Some Like it Hot T 
Spank The Monkey T 
Steal Away S 
Tulgey Wood T 
Up In Smoke T 
Way Layed T 
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) T 

West Face Rock Climbing 

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Location: 44.5904, -104.71681 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 62,183
Administrators: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on Jul 19, 2002


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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


These are the routes you can see from the parking lot. They are all accessed by the west face approach and encompass all routes from the NE shoulder on the left to the large leaning pillar on top of the SW buttress (Durrance pillar) on the right. The routes on the West face are some of the cleanest and most accessible routes on the tower. Ultra-classics include Carol's crack, McCarthy's west face, El Matador, Tugley Wood, and many more. As with the other sides of the tower, the "good" climbing is on the lower 2/3 with easy bolted rappels before the less appealing rock. Most routes will require a two-rope descent.

Getting There 

Leave the main trail shortly after the trail starts heading south parallel to the tower, at the same place the Durrance approach leaves the trail. Hike up the boulderfield to the base of the tower. Locate the obvious stem box with two five-foot wide dihedrals facing each other for 150' and a ledge at the end of the left pillar (El Matador). Most west face routes are left of here. Right of El Matador, see Durrance Approach. Sparse poison ivy is often encountered on the hike/scramble north to Carol's crack area.

Climbing Season

Weather station 0.5 miles from here

42 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',14],['3 Stars',21],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in West Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for West Face:
Tulgey Wood   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Fractal   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Jerry's Kids   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
McCarthy West Face (Variant)   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
One Way Sunset   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 440'   
El Matador   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 5 pitches, 250'   
Spank The Monkey   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Mr. Clean   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 500'   
Carol's Crack   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 320'   
Way Layed   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   
California Dreaming   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
No Holds for Bonzo   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
McCarthy West Face/Hong   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 230'   
Bloodguard   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   
Digital Extraction   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 350'   
Deli Express   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 325'   
A Bridge Too Far   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Avalon   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 350'   
Brokedown Palace   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 4 pitches   
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in West Face

Featured Route For West Face
Rock Climbing Photo: An unknown climber nearing the end of the stemming...

El Matador 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  Wyoming : Devil's Tower : West Face
This is the classic box stem on the far south end of the west face easily visable from the trail head at the parking lot. Expect tourist gawkers on this route. There is good reason for them to stare, this is one of the most unique and classic climbs in the country. Pitch 1: Climb the ramp and short section of 5.8 to get to a big ledge on top of a broken column at the base of the box. Pitch 2: This is the pitch you've heard about. Climb up setting gear in the crack on the left when ever you ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Wyoming

Photos of West Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: West Face of Devils Tower through the fisheye lens...
West Face of Devils Tower through the fisheye lens...
Rock Climbing Photo: Devils Tower, dead tree, fisheye lens.
Devils Tower, dead tree, fisheye lens.
Rock Climbing Photo: Devil's Tower from the left side of the West Face....
Devil's Tower from the left side of the West Face....
Rock Climbing Photo: Campanula in the West Face rappels
Campanula in the West Face rappels
Rock Climbing Photo: and another evening light photo
and another evening light photo
Rock Climbing Photo: evening light on the W Face
evening light on the W Face
Rock Climbing Photo: S side of the W Face
S side of the W Face
Rock Climbing Photo: Taken June, 2000
BETA PHOTO: Taken June, 2000

Comments on West Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 28, 2006
In August of 1999 with his blessing I did a couple first ascents of routes that Dingus McGee had bolted but had not been able to climb. One of them is the bolt line up the arete just right of One Way Sunset. Dave Larsen, Dean Brault and I rated it 5.12 and called it Astro Glide. Has anyone else done this route? How hard did you think it was? I will add them to the list soon. The second is the bolted dihedral above Buckspeck. This one Dean Brault and I rated 5.12- and called it Team Ropin'. This one is on the north face as I recall. Same questions about this route.
By TomKingsbury
Nov 9, 2006
I have looked at both routes mentioned, but didn't try them due to the quality of the bolts. Team Ropin' looks rad, we rapped over it after doing the 'stepping out of flatland'(was going to t/r it, but ran outta time);('flatland' also crappy bolts). It would be a great community service to replace those bolts w/ good ones. (buckspeck, team ropin', steppin over, and astroglide all need new hardware, among others, second pitch of soler eclipse aswell) Permits are easy to get although w/ a hand drill the replacement might take forever. Was up there in august and october '06. 5.12 looks about right though.
(toms brother pat)
By Will Buckman
From: Devils Tower
Aug 2, 2014
Just a heads up, the 2014 Falcon closure for the west face of Devils Tower is over. Come enjoy the shady side and some sweet cracks!
Thank you climbers for abiding by the closure and allowing a pair of nesting peregrine falcons to successfully fledge two chicks. Those chicks are becoming skilled aviators and are out eating pigeons daily.

There will be an official announcement sent out on Monday.


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