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Third Buttress
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Ah Maw T 
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Mojo Rising T 
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Standard Left Start T 
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Standard Variation T 
West Face (variation) T,TR 
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Wingtip T,TR 

West Face (variation) 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,933
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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BETA PHOTO: Third Buttress 1. Standard Route (7+). 2. West F...

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  • Description 

    P1. Start on the water pipe almost in the tunnel. Sling a pipe anchor, move up on an arete of sorts. Aim for the right side of the small roof/overlap. Continue up this face following cracks and lichen. Pass 2 pins. Choose left or right above the second pin. From here, you can go up or angle right along a ramp past a small tree to a huge ledge.

    P2. You may traverse left and connect with the finish of the Standard Route.

    Watch for rope drag. This may feel a bit stiff for the grade.


    Standard rack to a #2 Camalot.

    Photos of West Face (variation) Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Nancy finishing on P2.
    Nancy finishing on P2.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Emerging from the Heart of Darkness....
    Emerging from the Heart of Darkness....

    Comments on West Face (variation) Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Michael Walker
    From: Loveland, CO
    Jul 23, 2002

    A worthy variation to this variation is to work out onto the slab left of the normal start (with thin pro) and follow the cracks aiming for the left side of the roof, passing two pitons en route. Traversing back right under the roof is a gas.

    For your return to your pack on the aqueduct, a wade through the tunnel between Buttress III and IV, without a headlamp (in the pitch black), barefoot, and up to your waist in water is a character building treat not to be missed.
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 7, 2002

    The spelunking return was recommended by a friend, and we too suffered through the dark, cold, wet slot. I immediately contacted the friend, and asked her how she could recommend such a horrible hole where I had to bend down so much half my rack was dragging through the water. Turns out she had never done it when there was water in the aqueduct. I don't know the schedule, but at least half the year it is bone dry.
    By Adam Hicks`
    Aug 30, 2002

    Not only is it bone dry most of the year, but it's also pretty damn easy just to walk around the elephant buttress or down the gully just NW of the stone, lol. But I DO have you guys to thank for the photo and the imagery of people actually attempting to chunnel through whilst it's filled with water. Next time perhaps you guys will try a more practical route?
    By Michael Walker
    From: Loveland, CO
    Aug 30, 2002

    I know all that, (did the dry route twice last week)...But you gotta try it when full, at least once - it's actually quite a trip!
    By Kevin Currigan
    From: Lakewood
    Aug 18, 2003

    We did the tunnel twice yesterday. I highly recommend this when there is water in it. You have to stow your gear above your waist and roll up your shorts. The water was very refreshing, and I don't think (?) it can get much higher than right under the crotch. If your shoes are tight, it's a treat squishing through the nice cool muck for a couple of minutes.

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