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West Face Variation Direct 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 6,717
Submitted By: DCSwish23 on Sep 27, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (87)
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Looking up from top of the first pitch

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


P1: Same as West Face Variation
P2: Climb up and left to dihedral crack that leads straight up to the finish of West Face Variation P3


Standard trad rack

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By Muscrat
Dec 13, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I can not believe there are no comments for this route? The climbing is classic, varied, entertaining, and thoughtful. The second pitch has stumped friends who thought they could cruise 5.8. Just fun, and of course it gets you to one of the classic top outs on the top of the monkey.
By dydayley
From: camas,wa
Jun 4, 2015

Great thought provoking 1st and 2nd pitch. Loved the 2nd pitch dihedral. bordering on a 5.9. The direct route is a must do. Pulled panic point in the rain and it was a great adventure. Thank goodness for jugs.
By Matt Skorina
From: Bend, OR
Nov 30, 2015

Really stellar climb. I found the start of P1 to be a little challenging, but it was cruising for the rest of the pitch. Got to the base of the bolt ladder and it got dark and we decided to bail. Double ropes will reach from the anchors at the base of the bolt ladder to the top of P1, a 70m will just kiss the ground from there (we did another double rope rappel). Probably not the easiest way down but our knot didn't get stuck on either pull.
By Serge Smirnov
Jun 28, 2016

I agree with the comments (on the West Face Variation page) that say this Direct P2 is no harder than P1 - both seemed 5.8 to me. I was worried the flare would be a chimney nightmare, but it wasn't - there were enough good holds to keep it 5.8 (though perhaps shorter climbers would need 5.9 moves to reach those holds). Didn't need any knee bars.

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