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The Capstan
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West Face [The Capstan] TR 

West Face [The Capstan] 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,658
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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West Face. Photo by Wes Varsos.

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Start about 4 feet to the left of the obvious (difficult) crack. Move through the huecos to reach a ledge, move left and up through a few balance moves onto nice jugs. It is a fun route.


A couple of five foot slings. Conversely, you can do this as a definite highball boulder problem.

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By Cassidy Hill
May 7, 2003

This isnt a route, its a boulder problem. V1**.
By Darin Lang
May 7, 2003

The Scenic Cruise, the Yellow Wall, the Casual Route, and Astroman are boulder problems for some. Pinch Overhang is a route as far as I'm concerned. What's your point?
By Robert Buswold
From: Northglenn, CO
Jul 28, 2010

Fun route - too high for me without rope... can be down-climbed easily on the other side once you top out.
By Rodger Raubach
Apr 16, 2013

I'll agree that this is "too high for me without a rope!" The rating of 10a seems about right.
By Kaz Hatfield
Sep 1, 2017

Very cool route with great holds at the bottom and top. Move up to the ledge make two or three hand positions on the ledge, and move up through an awkward but not difficult sequence to one of the coolest sidecling jugs. After that, it's a mellow finish through the top. 10a is accurate for that middle section.

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