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North Fork of Taylor
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West Face of Tucapit 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c R

Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 800', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c R [details]
FA: FA: Bill March and Bill Forrest, June 1981 FFA: Karl Kvashay and Ethan Newman
Page Views: 866
Submitted By: EJN on Aug 24, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: The route is in the middle of the face, it's a chi...

Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


High quality route climbed by the Bills in '81. The route follows one crack system from bottom to top of the cliff. The rock is good and featured, the line is aesthetic, and the drilled pins still look pretty good. Expect a little bit of everything, although there's a decent bit of chimney climbing. Fun, physical climbing throughout the route.

Although we found a small stash of gear at the base of the route, the climb looked essentially untouched from the FA. The tat on the rap stations looked quite old; it was completely bleached and core-shot from the wind scouring it. We also found a #7 Forrest Teton at the base, apparently left by the FA team. There is an old, cryptic topo at the visitor center. I've provided a new one here that hopefully helps without giving too much away. Have fun!

Original AAJ Report


Park at and hike up the trail for the Middle fork of Taylor Creek. At the old cabin, head off trail towards the North Fork of Taylor Creek. Follow the wash until you're past the initial rock buttress that splits the creek forks. From here, you should be able to see the route through the trees. The route faces west on a narrow wall on the north side of Tucapit. Bushwhack up the hill to access the slickrock bowl that drains northwest below the route. The route is an obvious crack that splits the entire face, and becomes a chimney in lighter rock about halfway up. The approach should take an hour or so.

Descent: Rap the route. Take some tat.


We took triples to #3 BD, plus an old 3.5 to old 5. You could probably get away with doubles, although a good selection of new #3-#6 BD will make you feel pretty good about life. A red ballnut is nice for P3.

Photos of West Face of Tucapit Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: P2
Rock Climbing Photo: P3
Rock Climbing Photo: P7
Rock Climbing Photo: New Topo

Comments on West Face of Tucapit Add Comment
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By karl kvashay
From: cedar city, utah
Aug 29, 2014

I had a great time climbing this route. I thought the second pitch was about as good as climbing gets (great lead, Ethan!!) but the rest of the climb was lots of fun too. Great rock with the exception of some easy choss navigation on p7 (belayer is sheltered), airy, smooth rope pulls, and actually good cell service if that matters to anyone haha. I loved it- go do it!

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