|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 400'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Karl Kiser on Dec 10, 2012|
|Comments on West Face||Add Comment|
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By Marta Reece
From: Las Cruces, NM
Jan 10, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Approach: Turn off the regular trail to Lambda Wall above the large tree and traverse left on easy but featured ground with generally friendly vegetation (see photo for details).
Pitch 1: 110 ft, 5.7+. Go up the large dihedral - very easy at first, sustained and interesting climbing later, one piton. Note a large loose-looking rock below a yellow-green decorated roof. Go left of the rock and exit the dihedral to the right immediately after using the widest crack for hands. Traverse right on easy ground to the next left-facing corner. Going up to the small tree gets chossy for a few feet just below the tree, or you can go through the yucca to the left.
Pitch 2: 100 ft, 5.7. From the tree go up and slightly left on a somewhat slabby terrain with smaller holds and few small pro placements. Traverse left on an easy almost-ledge. Go up and right past a tiny bush and a piton, then up a steep but easy corner on jugs, and pop up onto a slab. Belay from below the head wall.
Pitch 3: 120 ft, 5.6. Head left at the top of the slab past couple more pitons. Continue traversing left under the house-size block - The Oven. Once past it, go straight up on good holds keeping the rope out of the crack at the corner of The Oven. Continue up an unfortunately dirty but super-easy gully to the overhangs above.
Pitch 4: 70 ft, 5.7+. The route goes to the right. It is a bit thin at the start, but the undercling after that is solid. Once you clear it, head up and to the left through a narrow squeeze. Stay left on easy slab to the top-out.
By Robert Cort
Oct 3, 2016
|I found this to be a great route, the the climbing is pretty sustained at the grade(or close to it) , and the protection is mostly good. Best of all, for a 5.7 route, you get some great exposure in several places. There two spots in particular that a 5.7 leader should make note of: 1) coming off the belay for P2, you step up on to a thin slab with only limited pro. Go for it, it's not as hard as it looks. 2) leaving the belay for the 4th pitch (last pitch), you have to commit to an undercling with feet on nothing much. The undercling is solid, go for it! One other note, on P3, placing a large nut in the crack at the corner, might help keep the rope out of the crack (worked well for us).|