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Fourth Sella Tower
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West Face, Glueck Route. T 

West Face, Glueck Route. 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 850', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: F. Glueck, et. al. 1929
Season: Summer and Autumn
Page Views: 27
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Jun 6, 2013

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Description 

The route is less frequently climbed than others in the Sella Towers due to a somewhat lower rock quality. The climbing has been rated as mostly 5.5-5.6 with occasional spots of 5.7 or 5.7+ depending on the exact line followed. Begin by climbing directly towards a yellow overhang that lies on the right side of the face, and traversing to the left below it. There are numerous fixed pitons and many "hourglasses" for threads. The belay stations are mostly equipped with several pitons. The 4th and 5th leads have the most difficult climbing.

Location 

The actual start of climbing is below a prominent yellow overhang some 80-100 feet off the deck.

Descend by downclimbing into the notch between the tower to a cemented-in piton for a series of 9 abseils back to the talus.

Protection 

Normal alpine rack with extra runners and QDs.


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By jay2718
Jul 6, 2016

This is a serious, long alpine tower. This route description is woefully insufficient for any reasonable chance of finding your way up this tower safely. There are at least 10 pitches. This description makes it sound as if the line is totally obvious and there are no other routes on the tower. But there are a number of other routes old, new, and sketchy aid routes. It is easy to get off route, and the climbing either gets totally chossey, or much harder than 5.7. Get a legitimate topo-map and route description and/or hire a guide. Bring two ropes for sure, and be willing and able to bail. For those who seek to submit a multi-pitch alpine route, put some effort into your description, supply topos and pitch by pitch descriptions. Otherwise, hold your tongue so people go to a legitimate guidebook for their info.