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West Face Direct 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: 
Season: Summer
Page Views: 50
Submitted By: Kevin Driscoll on Jul 10, 2017

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stemming the crux sequence on pitch 2

Description 

Pitch 1 climb the flakes to the ledge below the off-width chimney pitch. This ledge has a dead tree on it and makes an excellent belay for the crux pitch 2. The chimney is excellent with mostly stemming but some jamming the off-width. Just warning that this is old school 5.9 and very strenuous for the grade. However pro is good with large pieces low and options on the left side for smaller gear middle and up. Exit the chimney and move left on excellent ledge for belay. Pitch 3 is a fun crack, flake, block climb 5.8 with good pro. Move into the crack off the belay ledge was the hard part, after which it eases. Move up and left before a committing move out from under a small roof and your done.

Location 

The route is the obvious vertical corner/chimney located in the middle of the West Face. Start is just right of the Standard Route on Cl 3 ledges.
Descend via bolted anchors on the rappel chimney route.

Protection 

Standard rack of cams and nuts up to #5. Had doubles in the mid-range cams. Used all the large gear on pitch 2. No cracks for top anchor on pitch 3, just large blocks, so bring long cordelette/slings.


Photos of West Face Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin enjoying the views.  Priest Lake in the back...
Kevin enjoying the views. Priest Lake in the back...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dean moving out of the chimney top of pitch 2 onto...
BETA PHOTO: Dean moving out of the chimney top of pitch 2 onto...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dean moving out from under small roof on Pitch 3 h...
BETA PHOTO: Dean moving out from under small roof on Pitch 3 h...
Rock Climbing Photo: West Face Direct route
BETA PHOTO: West Face Direct route

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