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West Face Direct 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Frank de Saussure and Betty Davis
Page Views: 135
Submitted By: Marta Reece on Nov 24, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: The likely topo of West Face Direct, ending where ...

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The description below, found in NMSU archives, was created by the legendary Southwest Mountaineers. It is at a minimum twenty years old, but likely dates as far back as 1970’s. The rock itself may have changed since that time. The rating system certainly has. For comparison, the Davis Route is listed in the same document as 5.3 and Boyer’s Chute as 5.2. So please treat what follows as a rough guide to an adventure, not as a solid and current info. If you do climb the route, sharing of what you learn would be appreciated.

Approach as for the south-face routes (see Davis Route) but as soon as you arrive at the southwest corner of the mountain, take to easy rock and climb up third class to a sloping ledge on the west face. Put on the rope and traverse left to a slightly difficult little dihedral, which leads up to the sloping ledge above.

The next pitch is the crux: smooth, slightly overhanging walls bar all progress up except for a steep section just left of a large unsound looking flake. Climb up this on adequate holds and muscle up a strenuous exit to the right to a bushy ledge. Then head up and leftish over mixed climbing, including a smooth ramp, whose holds reward a long reach, until the Davis Route is reached on the great shoulder on the SW ridge of the mountain. Continue as there.

Variation, Class 5.7

First ascent: Frank de Saussure and Dave Bailey

Go up Boyer’s Chute one pitch, then exit to the right on steep friction climbing onto the west face. Above this is a very laborious wriggle chimney, after which West Face Direct Route is joined.

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