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Marmot's Tooth - Beginner's Mind T 
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West Face Dihedral T 

West Face Dihedral 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1500', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Chris Landry 1977. FFA Matt Spohn and Blake McCord July 22 2014
Page Views: 784
Submitted By: peachy spohn on Jul 25, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: The route.


Pitch 1: Begin up an obvious crack that splits the slab (5.5) and gain the ledge. Follow this right and up toward the huge talus slope above. Over 70m, but simul-climbed. Be careful to not dislodge any blocks from the talus ledge onto your follower. Good gear the whole way.

---Move belay up and right to the base of Triangle Tower (go around the snow patch).

Pitch 2: 5.7, Follow a left leaning crack system to a ledge and then head toward an obvious Boulder for the belay. 70m.

Pitch 3: 5.8, Move around left from the belay and up the ramp. Make some moves up and over to the next ramp and head toward a short chimney. From the top of the chimney a short face traverse right will lead you to a nice belay stance. 70m.

Pitch 4: 5.7, A start section will lead you up from the belay and then right around the corner. Gain the top of Triangle Tower (enormous) and then follow a zig-zag section of ramps and flakes to a belay high and out right. 70m.

Pitch 5: 10a/b, From the belay ascend an arcing, intermittent flake with spicy protection. Aim for a ledge and place a nut up and right to protect the follower. Traverse left along the ledge into the dripping alcove and ascend the spectacular overhang is seeping, but solid. A tricky exit will get you to a ledge for your somewhat wet belay. 60m.

Pitch 6: Crux, 12b. Go left to a wide crack (optional #5), and follow this up to a sloped, triangular ledge. Stem up this (a removable piton protects the initial moves and can be slung with a runner) at 11c/d. Then rest your way up another wider section with good holds on the right wall to just below a small bulge. Here, you can choose to go straight up the seeping dihedral (12a) or move left and arc around under the roof above (11c) to meet at the next steep bulge. Either way is wet. Then, commit up to the horn on the right side and decipher the crux (12b). A 5.10 move protects the last bit to get onto the ramp. Climb 20 more feet to a pedestal belay. 60m.

Pitch 7: 10a, Work your way up the slick chimney above and then angle left toward the main Dihedral. A very cool crack splits the left face and takes you to a hanging pillar. Traverse across this and up brilliant knobs and flakes to a giant belay ledge. 70m.

Pitch 8: 10a, Go into the main Dihedral and work your way through three distinct cruxes. Good protection the entire way. We stretched the rope by simul-climbing about 30 feet to where the technical climbing ends. 85m.

Continue to the main summit!


The prominent corner system that ascends straight up the middle of Fremont Peak's main West Face. Follow the huge talus up and right from Mistake Lake and trend toward the green swath that angles rightward. Work your way up towards a large, organish boulder.

Descent: find the 3rd class trail, which will be toward your left as you descend. We angled almost straight left once a hundred or so meters below the summit. The trail you find is intermittent and will eventually take you to the obvious saddle. From here, cross the saddle but do not go up the rise/peak. Instead, shoot down the right side toward Mistake Lake following the vegetated switchbacks (some fairly steep) toward the talus. You do not have to rappel, but route finding can be difficult.


Double set of cams from .1 - 4 BD or 00 - 9 Metolius. Set of stoppers, including doubles in the mid range from 6 - 10. 70m rope. 10 - 12 alpine draws. Warm cloths.

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