|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 500'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]|
|Submitted By:||Aaron Hobson on Sep 17, 2010|
|Comments on West Face Corner||Add Comment|
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By Aaron Hobson
From: Clinton, TN
Sep 17, 2010
|It looks like a nice variation on the 2nd pitch is to take a steep fist-OW crack that splits the roof system. I didn't feel strong enough to climb this when we climbed the route, but it is probably less scary than the 5.10+ pg13 move on the slabs to the left.|
By Karl Kiser
Sep 18, 2010
|This is probably a route put up by Edmund Ward in the late 70s. He rated it 5.9 so it could easily be 5.10. As I recall there was a rap station on a ledge after two pitches. One needed to traverse relatively far left on the ledge to find the anchor.|
By Nathan Fry
From: Intervale, NH
Jul 2, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Had a wild ride on West Face Corner yesterday. I consider it one of the better climbs I have experienced in the Organs, taking our deliberate variations into account (in bold).
1) Pitch 1 - start midway up the 4th class scramble at a 5.9 crack that splits the face below the West Face Corner (WFC) start (see beta photo). Climb to the ledge below the WFC. 90 feet.
2) Pitch 2 - climb the traditional first pitch of WFC, enjoying the stellar roof undercling. Belay in the usual spot. Postitive cool points for argyle knee socks, negative cool points for white gym socks. Short pitch - about 60 feet.
3) Pitch 3 - climb the traditional second pitch, with a variation that bypasses the roof/seam combo via the steep crack to the right. The crack at the start of the pitch goes at about 5.8; climb up from the belay and, when under the roof at the top of the corner, make a hard right and traverse over unprotected 5.7-5.8 slabs to a stance under the fist/OW crack that splits the wall. The bottom of this 5.10 crack fits a #2 C4 perfectly, then fire straight up the crack to a belay stance on the ledge above. Place #3 and #4 C4s as the crack widens to off-width (see beta photo). Note that the crack has very deep jams - I was in up to my shoulder at one point. We called it the "Organ Grinder" pitch, based on how our arms looked after the jams. About 150 feet.
4) Pitch 4 - roughly follows the description of WFC's traditional pitch 3. Move up and left from the belay ledge to a slabby ramp that leads to a sequence of two bulges/mini roofs. Pull both roofs (single moves of 5.7-5.8) and end at a large ledge to the right of a shrub-filled gully (the Davis Route). About 120 feet.
5) Pitch 5 - the major variation. From the Pitch 4 belay stance, scramble down and right around the prominent prow above to the base of a moderate jumble of face and crack climbing on clean, white rock. Climb up to the headwall, where you will see three variations to pull over the final obstacle - a flaring finger crack, a diagonal off-width crack, and a roof with a gap. All three go at the high .10s. I attempted the off-width and didn't have enough strength left with the rope drag. Recommend anyone trying this pitch to use half ropes to avoid the drag I encountered at the end. We backed off, downclimbed, and finished via the Davis Route. While there is no evidence of recent activity, there was an old piton jammed in a crack midway up that indicates someone has been up this way. Nice potential for a quality new ascent.
Overall, the WFC has some super climbing on good rock with a relatively straightforward approach, by Organ standards. Have fun.
By Forrest Wilcox
From: Las Cruces, NM
Sep 29, 2013
|This route is an Organs classic, in my opinion, if you do the variations mentioned in the comments. The cracks are perfect and the rock is solid. This is a must do in the Organs. Do the off-width crack finish.|