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West Face (Aid) 

YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c C1

Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 400', Grade II
Original:  YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c C1 [details]
FA: Dean Caldwell, Byron Babcock & Bill Lentsch - 1962
Page Views: 7,526
Submitted By: corvegas on May 15, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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JohnK leading the third pitch of West Face.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


This climb also goes free at 5.12a A1.

P1 - C1+ or 12a A0- Start on the western point of the monkey at a 5 bolt bolt ladder. Then aid the crack at C1, cam hooks and offset nuts are usefull here, clip a few more bolts, then mantel onto ledge. 3 bolt Anchor at small ledge.

P2 - A1 - Aid the bolts to sling belay.

P3 - easy 5th C1 or 5.12a - Aid more bolts to a scramble into the big west face cave.

P4 - 5.4 C1 or 5.11B - Aid out of the cave on bolts to some free to the summit.

Descent: Rap down to the nose boulder then one double rope to ground.

Note: Pitches 2 & 3 can be linked with 60M ropes. This climb also goes free at 5.12a, except for P2.


Small clean aid rack to 2" include cam hooks and offset nuts. Mabey a Talon or a cheat stick. Quickdraws.

Photos of West Face (Aid) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1. Free at 12a. Somewhat hidden from casual ...
Pitch 1. Free at 12a. Somewhat hidden from casual ...
Rock Climbing Photo: On first pitch, west face crack, 512a.
On first pitch, west face crack, 512a.
Rock Climbing Photo: a hiker took this shot of me on P1
a hiker took this shot of me on P1
Rock Climbing Photo: looking up the bolt ladder on P2
looking up the bolt ladder on P2

Comments on West Face (Aid) Add Comment
Show which comments
By rpc
Mar 26, 2008

Done it twice incl. once with a 160 lb pig "for practice". Great place to learn aid on very exposed but very safe terrain (IMHO). Yes, lots of bolt ladders but position is spectacular!
By Shapp
Oct 28, 2009

Big props to the late Chris Pernel (spelling?)for replacing the ancient belay bolts back in the early 1990s, which made all future ascents possible. P.s. if you lost a Petzel zoom in the back notch cave in the early 1990s, send me an email and I can get it back to you. No longer need it now that there are nicer smaller ones available.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 27, 2010

Climbed this as an aid route for a fun diversion, and here are the details:

P1 (130') C1 - Fun and engaging. I needed a hook to reach the first bolt, but I probably could have tried harder and made one free move to reach it. Offset nuts from small (#3/4 HBs) to the big aluminum ones are key. 2-3 sets recommended along with one or two sets of small cams to #0.5 camalot. I used a green and red camalot too.

P2 (80') C0 - STEEP bolt ladder, 23 bolts. Easy to back clean every other one.

P3 (100') C0 - STEEP bolt ladder, 19 bolts - but you might not want to back clean too many as they are pretty reachy. Skip the intermediate belay. You'll either need to free climb or hook for a move or two to reach the bolt off the intermediate belay ledge. The dismount into the West Face cave was made easy with a #1 camalot. The west face cave is littered with loose rock and the edges are sharp. BRING DUCT TAPE TO PAD THE EDGES (there are two)!!

P4 (60') C0/5easy - Thrash and dangle out the left bolt line to a ledge and then scramble to the top!

The rap down was super cool!

Gear: 2-3 sets of offset nuts from small to large. 2 sets of small cams to #0.5 camalot. One green and one red camalot. A medium hook can't hurt. There are ledges are each belay, so no belay seat needed.
By Calvin Landrus
From: Bend, OR
Apr 27, 2010

I'm trying to free the first pitch. Has anyone ever tried to avoid the bolt ladder that free from the ground-up coming in from the left using bolts from other routes? Doing as a aid pitch is super good too. Its an amazing crack.
By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Apr 27, 2010

The standard method for freeing the first pitch is to start up Sheer Trickery, then head right after the third bolt to join the West Face crack. I don't know if the "direct" bolt ladder has ever been freed.
By rl23455
From: Portland, OR
Jan 2, 2014

Note that if you want to bail the route at the top of the 2nd pitch, you will need to tie off a rope at the start of P2(to pull yourself back to the anchors) otherwise you are rapping into air(20-25 away from the wall) and will never be able to get back to the top of P1 anchors.
By Nathan Scherneck
From: Portland, OR
Feb 24, 2014
rating: Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c C1

Only did P1 as we were pressed for time. Some notes: Andy's rack notes above are good, however I brought a set of brass nuts and didn't place any. I also had a full set of Stoppers and DMM alloy offsets. The offsets were very useful. I cam hooked twice, more for the experience. Not mandatory. Perhaps those spots are where the brass would come in handy. A fun aid outing, for sure.
By Jay Swamidass
From: Anchorage, AK
May 6, 2014

Super fun aid route!

We started late and ended up reaching the west face cave after dark and had a difficult time finding the bolt line out of the cave. Since it's not totally clear on here, I'll point out that the route continues out of the cave from a point on the left side of the upper lip of the cave. If you end up stuck after dark, just look directly up from the line of the 3rd pitch bolt ladder and you will see two anchor bolts, followed by three bolts moving to the left, leading to a small ledge that continues to a run-out 5th class scramble to the summit.

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