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Tom's Thumb
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West Corner T 

West Corner 

YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.1 French: 2 Ewbanks: 6 UIAA: II ZA: 7 British: MD 2a [details]
FA: Dick Hart, Bill McMorris (1948)
Page Views: 1,155
Submitted By: Scott Frankel on Dec 31, 2011

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Climbing pitch one.

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  • Description 

    Good beginner's lead route to the top of the Thumb. This was the original route way back in 1948! Originally rated Fourth class, but it's really a low 5th class climb. Actually, the first pitch is fourth class, but the 2nd pitch is fifth class.

    Pitch 1: Follow fourth class easy scramble from left to right up a ramp. Continue up crack to tree to belay from.

    Pitch 2: Traverse left towards another tree and across a low angle sloped face to a crack system on the left, then up a wide dual crack system to an overhang. Traverse right under the overhang across another low angle sloped face and then up a wide crack to the top.

    Location 

    Look for the left to right vegetation choked sloping rock on the South West corner of the thumb. It's just to the right of an obvious crack and about 20 feet right of 'The Settlement (5.7)'.

    Protection 

    Medium to large pro. Placements are pretty straight forward for most of this climb. Belay the first pitch from the tree. Dual rope rappel from the top: three bolts to a chain with rap rings. You *might* be able to rappel down with a single 60 meter rope with rope stretch, but I wouldn't chance it.


    Photos of West Corner Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Suzanne finishing the second pitch of 'West Face'
    Suzanne finishing the second pitch of 'West Face'
    Rock Climbing Photo: Susan starting her rappel off of Tom's Thumb.
    Susan starting her rappel off of Tom's Thumb.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Start of 'West Corner'. Follow the ramp of vegetat...
    BETA PHOTO: Start of 'West Corner'. Follow the ramp of vegetat...

    Comments on West Corner Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By apoet
    From: AZ
    Jun 3, 2016
    rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

    It is possible to single rope rappel with a 60m rope. Head South towards the treetop you can barely see from the top.