REI Community
The Splinter
Select Route:
West Chimney T 

West Chimney 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 135'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Trevor and Eddie Bowman 5/3/08
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 30
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on May 4, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The old man on the summit of the Splinter, with Sh...

Description 

P1-The tight chimney of good rock on the down-canyon side of the spire. Wriggle up this past 4-5 chockstones (bring several double or triple-length runners). From the top of the chimney, hike up a short slope of dirt and talus--be extremely careful of loose rocks here!--and sling a giant chockstone in the notch between the summit pinnacle and the cliff behind for an anchor.
P2--Pull above the anchor chockstone and up a leaning crack on the summit pinnacle; step left onto the featured slab and run it out to the top.
The summit is quite cool, as it is a smooth sheet of dolomite tilted at a slight angle.

Location 

Obvious chimney on west (down-canyon side of spire). The short second pitch starts directly out of the notch between the summit pinnacle and the cliff. Rap off the opposite face from the route (140'); or, rap down to the notch (25') and scramble off on ledges on the up-canyon side of the spire past dense brush (kind of a thrash).

Protection 

Several 3-4 double/triple length runners for chockstones and a cordalette for the chockstone anchor on P1. A couple medium stoppers and a 1" cam for P2. 2 bolt anchor on top. Bring replacement webbing.


Comments on West Chimney Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About