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West Chimney 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Jerry Gallwas, Barbara Lilley, and others, Mar. 1953
Page Views: 2,404
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jul 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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Ben Larson leading West Chimney.


Climb a shallow squeeze chimney (crux) up to a large ledge at the base of the main chimney. Climb this large chimney (4th class) to the top.


The upper two thirds of this route is a very obvious chimney that splits the west face of the rock.


light rack

Photos of West Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "West Chimney". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "West Chimney". Photo by Blitzo.

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By Darshan Ahluwalia
From: Petaluma, CA
Nov 20, 2006

first thirty feet are kind of hard if you don't know how to chimney. easy, but not recommended for beginners due to the required technical chimneying and offwidth... even at 5.6 chimney/offwidth can be made hard.
By Charles I.
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 5, 2007

Just did this awesome route for the first time. This is defintely one of my favorite lines up IR.
By juggy
From: Lakewood Colorado
Apr 30, 2010

best way to come down when soloing
By Russ Walling
May 1, 2010

I've found the Upper Right Ski Track to be an easier downclimb for a post solo descent. It does look hard and reeks of certain death, but it ain't. Granted, the hard part of the West Chimney is at the bottom, so the potential fall that a downclimber might take will be much more survivable than the absolute death one would get from pitching out of the Upper Right Ski Track at any point. YMMV.
By Randy
May 1, 2010

As Russ said
By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
Mar 7, 2012

I always found the SE Corner to be the mellowest downclimb (although I haven't checked this out).
By Ryan Strickland
From: Idyllwild, CA
May 4, 2015

I've only climbed down this thing, but it's a fun route! The chimney crux moves are secure as a downclimb; it's probably harder going up. In my opinion the least secure moves on the down climb are the last 5 feet!

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