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West Buttress 
West Rib, The 

West Buttress 

Mod. Snow

   
Type:  Snow, Alpine, 12500'
Original: Mod. Snow [details]
FA: 1951 Brad Washburn
Season: Late April - Late June
Page Views: 13,711
Submitted By: R Squared on Apr 29, 2007

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On Denali's West Buttress 6/11/2007. Photo: Joel ...

Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!

Description 

The West Buttress is often considered the handicap ramp to the top of Denali. It is the easiest route to the top but it can still kill you very quickly. The route has around 12,500 ft. of elevation gain. Weather can change in a heartbeat so come prepared for anything.

Location 

The route starts at 7,200 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier and climbs all the way to 20,320 feet. 14 miles long so come in shape and prepared.

Protection 

There are fixed lines on the route so bring jumars. Ice axe, good winter tent, stove, fuel, food, motivation, patience, the proper clothing.


Photos of West Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit Ridge
Summit Ridge
Rock Climbing Photo: West Buttress made for a memorable ski trip -  pho...
West Buttress made for a memorable ski trip - pho...
Rock Climbing Photo: snowboarding at 20,000'
snowboarding at 20,000'
Rock Climbing Photo: Ridge to 17K
Ridge to 17K
Rock Climbing Photo: Well....  is that it??
Well.... is that it??
Rock Climbing Photo: 14k camp
14k camp
Rock Climbing Photo: The West Buttress
BETA PHOTO: The West Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: kahiltna base camp at 7000ft. Mt Hunter in backgro...
kahiltna base camp at 7000ft. Mt Hunter in backgro...
Rock Climbing Photo: cooking at the cook tent
cooking at the cook tent
Rock Climbing Photo: cribbage...lots and lots of cribbage
cribbage...lots and lots of cribbage
Rock Climbing Photo: The climb from the 14,000 foot camp, up the fixed ...
BETA PHOTO: The climb from the 14,000 foot camp, up the fixed ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down at the 11,300 foot camp from the top ...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down at the 11,300 foot camp from the top ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Views for 17k
The Views for 17k
Rock Climbing Photo: Day 1 of your trip, on the ground at Kahiltna Base...
Day 1 of your trip, on the ground at Kahiltna Base...
Rock Climbing Photo: please email denaliresearchproject@gmail.com for m...
BETA PHOTO: please email denaliresearchproject@gmail.com for m...
Rock Climbing Photo: balmy day at 17 camp, 16 June 2008
balmy day at 17 camp, 16 June 2008
Rock Climbing Photo: A view from the West Rib cutoff of the West Buttre...
BETA PHOTO: A view from the West Rib cutoff of the West Buttre...
Rock Climbing Photo: The West Buttress camp at 14,000 feet, viewed from...
The West Buttress camp at 14,000 feet, viewed from...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Belly of the Beast: The west face of Denali, v...
BETA PHOTO: The Belly of the Beast: The west face of Denali, v...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the route from Windy Corner toward Sq...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the route from Windy Corner toward Sq...
Rock Climbing Photo: If the climb to this point at the top of Motorcycl...
BETA PHOTO: If the climb to this point at the top of Motorcycl...
Rock Climbing Photo: At the top of the head wall, above fixed lines (~1...
At the top of the head wall, above fixed lines (~1...
Rock Climbing Photo: Siege the Day. Leaving 14,000 camp for 17,000 camp...
Siege the Day. Leaving 14,000 camp for 17,000 camp...
Rock Climbing Photo: Evan...
Evan...

Show All 38 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on West Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By mlloyd
From: denver
Nov 29, 2011

I'm looking for a partner to climb denali via the west buttress in june 2012. Email me if your into it...
By Mark Smiley
From: Jackson, Wyoming
Apr 26, 2017

Want all the beta, how-to instructional video, GPS route lines, and more? It's all here: howtodenali.com

I've climbed Denali 5 times, and have done 15 other glacier based expeditions. I give you all the beta in the course, so you can climb like a pro. Check it out.

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