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West Buttress

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West Buttress Rock Climbing 

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Submitted By: Jer Collins on Jul 15, 2004
This Afternoon

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BETA PHOTO: First Apron on left with West Buttress just right.


This is located between the First and Second Apron on the West Flank of Evans. Starting 100 feet higher than its two neighbors but summiting at the same altitude (roughly 14k), the West Buttress is a quick outing but a lot of fun on immaculate granite.

Getting There 

Approach as for the Second Apron, but pass below its north east face/corner, and aim up the talus on its left (east) side. The buttress is obvious, and from below, its top looks to be a massive stone flame rising from Evans rocky west ridge. Start from a ledge above the very toe of the buttress, directly in front of a perfectly triangular, 7 foot chunk of rock.

Climbing Season

For the Mt. Evans area.

Weather station 4.8 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in West Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for West Buttress:
Ozark Prom Queen   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 540'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in West Buttress

Featured Route For West Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Route in red. Green X = ring piton and crux.

Ozark Prom Queen 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c  Colorado : Alpine Rock : ... : West Buttress
As I was meandering through the talus to the base of the Second Apron, the summit of this buttress caught my eye. From below, it looks separated from the main ridge, and has an attractive low angle line directly up the middle. Locate the toe of the buttress from below. Aim for the ledge above the loose scrambling at the base. We crossed one snow field, but in early season, there would surely be more and an axe may be desired. We considered this an FA until we came across an ancient ring angle ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

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