REI Community
West Buttress - South

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bug City T 
Claim Jumper S 
Drew's Corner T 
Enemy Combatant TR 
Grunt and Moan S 
Layback and Relax TR 
Poking Holes in the Firmament S 
Ryobi S 
Scorpio Rising S 
Sexcellent S 
Shock and Awe S 
Sqench S 
Tiers of Joy T 
Unsorted Routes:

West Buttress - South Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 42.12441, -113.67193 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,801
Administrators: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: David Tvedt on Apr 20, 2006
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
South side of the West Buttress of Castle Rock. H...

BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING MORE INFO >>>


This spur off the west side of Castle Rock has several routes on it's south face that include: Claim Jumper (sport), Shock and Awe (sport), Enemy Combatant (Top Rope), Advance to Idaho (Trad), Squench (Sport). This wall faces directly south but gets some shade earlier in the morning from the main Castle Rock to east. You may have a waiting line for Shock and Awe on busy days. Around the left corner on the northwest side of the buttress, there are several more routes: Sword in the Stone (bolts and gear), Excalibur (trad) and Shifting Gears (bolts and gear). This wall has good shade until mid afternoon.

Approach the left most routes of this buttress by scrambling to a ledge 100 feet left of the gully.

Getting There 

Approach this crag by following the trail along the old ranch road that skirts south side of Castle Rock. Continue along the trail until you reach a signed trail that leads to the Hostess Gully. Follow the trail and flagging up through a boulder field to the routes.

Continue on the trail past Red Rib and Patina Atoll, take a left when you reach the base of the gully, and look for a flagged sign for Shock and Awe and head up the trail to the buttress on the right. The area can also be approached by following the trail/road along the south side of Castle Rock, then following it north along the west side of Castle Rock. This approach goes right along-side the west tip of the West Buttress.

Climbing Season

Weather station 14.2 miles from here

13 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in West Buttress - South

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for West Buttress - South:
Poking Holes in the Firmament   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Scorpio Rising   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Ryobi   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 70'   
Shock and Awe   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Grunt and Moan   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Claim Jumper   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 82'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in West Buttress - South

Featured Route For West Buttress - South
Rock Climbing Photo: Patty Black gettin' started on Shock and Awe

Shock and Awe 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Idaho : Castle Rocks : ... : West Buttress - South
This fun diverse route starts on patina edges. The crux hits low with in a maze of small patina holds facing different directions. Continue on with tricky pull-down edging leading to a steep jug finish....[more]   Browse More Classics in Idaho

Comments on West Buttress - South Add Comment
Show which comments
By DavidCollins
From: Grand Junction, CO
Jul 25, 2014
It looks like there are three sets of anchors to the right and uphill from Scorpio Rising. What are these routes?
By Steven Reneau
Jun 19, 2016
I was told the 3 sets of anchors right of Scorpio Rising, in the vicinity of It Takes Two, are all ~5.8 and were developed as mixed routes. I led the right one, with 3 bolts, and gear would have been useful between 2nd and 3rd bolts (runout, with decking potential). Left route has a longer non-bolted section.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About