West Buttress - South Rock Climbing
South side of the West Buttress of Castle Rock. H...
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This spur off the west side of Castle Rock
has several routes on it's south face that include: Claim Jumper
(sport), Shock and Awe
(sport), Enemy Combatant
(Top Rope), Advance to Idaho (Trad), Squench (Sport). This wall faces directly south but gets some shade earlier in the morning from the main Castle Rock
to east. You may have a waiting line for Shock and Awe
on busy days. Around the left corner on the northwest side of the buttress, there are several more routes: Sword in the Stone
(bolts and gear), Excalibur
(trad) and Shifting Gears
(bolts and gear). This wall has good shade until mid afternoon.
Approach the left most routes of this buttress by scrambling to a ledge 100 feet left of the gully.
Approach this crag by following the trail along the old ranch road that skirts south side of Castle Rock. Continue along the trail until you reach a signed trail that leads to the Hostess Gully. Follow the trail and flagging up through a boulder field to the routes.
Continue on the trail past Red Rib and Patina Atoll, take a left when you reach the base of the gully, and look for a flagged sign for Shock and Awe and head up the trail to the buttress on the right. The area can also be approached by following the trail/road along the south side of Castle Rock, then following it north along the west side of Castle Rock. This approach goes right along-side the west tip of the West Buttress.
Weather station 14.2 miles from here
13 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in West Buttress - South
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for West Buttress - South:
Featured Route For West Buttress - South
From: Grand Junction, CO
Jul 25, 2014
It looks like there are three sets of anchors to the right and uphill from Scorpio Rising. What are these routes?
By Steven Reneau
Jun 19, 2016
I was told the 3 sets of anchors right of Scorpio Rising, in the vicinity of It Takes Two, are all ~5.8 and were developed as mixed routes. I led the right one, with 3 bolts, and gear would have been useful between 2nd and 3rd bolts (runout, with decking potential). Left route has a longer non-bolted section.