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West Bluff - Stettner Rocks

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Stettner Rocks 

West Bluff - Stettner Rocks Rock Climbing 

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Submitted By: Stephen D. Schaefgen on Aug 8, 2002

87° | 64°

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64° | 46°

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BETA PHOTO: Stettner Rocks


Great beginners area. Not to mention, a lot of fun for anybody. All routes are easily top rop, and offers a lot of trad as well for those learning, or looking for an easy day. Most of the leadable climbs are 5.2-5.5. Access to the top is made easy, as there are "walk offs" in all directions. Routes are approximately 25 feet to 30 feet in length, climbers get sun, and belay gets shade.

Getting There 

The guide book ("Climber's Guide to Devil's Lake by Swartling) states (P.186) "Starting from the cottage road, hike up the old West Bluff Trail 300 feet to a bench above the first minor rock band. On this level follow the path 100 feet northeast to base of Stettner Rocks."

I had a hard time finding the old West Bluff Trail due to the heavy foliage, or perhaps, I just missed it. I followed the cottage road to approximately 100 feet before the first cottage, made a left, and went straight up the slope from the road. Approximately 200 feet from the road up. Also, from the West Bluff Parking lot, looking north along the West Bluff, a small part of Stettner Rocks can be seen peaking through the trees.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.5 miles from here

14 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in West Bluff - Stettner Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for West Bluff - Stettner Rocks:
Joseph   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, TR, 60'   Stettner Rocks
Brothers   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 25'   Stettner Rocks
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in West Bluff - Stettner Rocks

Featured Route For West Bluff - Stettner Rocks
Rock Climbing Photo: The Niche is to the right of this dihedral - it ca...

The Niche 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a  Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : ... : Stettner Rocks
On the northern outcrop of Stettner Rocks. At the south end of this outcrop, there are two small dihedrals, each about 5-6 feet deep. This route follows the right/north dihedral, next to the pedestal.Work up the dihedral and into the niche. Reach or stem up to grab the edge to the left. From here there are two finishes. The 5.4/5.5 hand traverses straight left, around the corner and almost around the next corner again. Once you have a good foot, clamber up.The other finish stems straight u...[more]   Browse More Classics in Wisconsin

Photos of West Bluff - Stettner Rocks Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Stettner Rocks
BETA PHOTO: Stettner Rocks
Rock Climbing Photo: Stettner Rocks routes
BETA PHOTO: Stettner Rocks routes

Comments on West Bluff - Stettner Rocks Add Comment
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By Brett Wiegman
Aug 9, 2002
This area is where I did my first Trad lead. It's a good learning area. Easily protectable, and the routes are fun, but not too dicey for your first lead.
By Joe Block
Aug 10, 2002
Notes on approach: The Old West Bluff Trail appears along Cottage Road about 100 feet after the junction with South Shore Road. It is the well traveled path that during high water is very marshy for the first ten feet. It passes next to a large boulder and then angles north towards Stettner's.Another approach is from the "New" West Bluff Trail, at one of the several climber's trails that appear after the stone steps.Another approach (from above) is from the first "overlook" along the "New" West Bluff Trail. This brings you above and slightly south of Stettner's. A gully provides access to the top of Stettner's on the south side of the formation.

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