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West Bluff - Cleo Amphitheater

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Blade, The 
Chair Bivy Buttress  
Cleo Amphitheater, The 
Cleopatra's Needle 
Turk's Head 
Whitney's Formation 
Wiessner Wall 

West Bluff - Cleo Amphitheater Rock Climbing 


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Location: 43.41731, -89.73845 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 31,526
Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James M Schroeder, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Mar 7, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: Telephoto of Weissner Wall and Cleo's Amp from...

Description 

The Cleo Amphitheater is probably the most frequently climbed area on the West Bluff. There are a good number of quality climbs found here and the access is relatively easy. The area sees morning sun and shade in the afternoon, so it's ideal for hot sunny days. The area is made up of the climbs on Cleopatra's Needle, the Amphitheater, the Wiessner Wall, and Turk's Head.

Getting There 

To get to the Cleo Amphitheater park at the gravel parking lot near the southwest end of the lake, across from the boat landing. The lot accomodates 20-30 cars. From the lot, cross the road and take the West Bluff Trail (paved) up the West Bluff. At the top of the bluff you will come to a lookout directly above the Amphitheater. The Wiessner Wall and Turk's Head are to your left (north), while Cleopatra's Needle is at about 11 o'clock if you're looking straight out off the bluff.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.6 miles from here

53 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',30],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',22],['5.7',8],['5.8',10],['5.9',6],['5.10',2],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',3],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in West Bluff - Cleo Amphitheater

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for West Bluff - Cleo Amphitheater:
Upper Wiessner Crack   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Wiessner Wall
Unnamed 5.3   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   The Cleo Amphitheater
Queen's Throne   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, TR   The Cleo Amphitheater
Minnie Mouse   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, TR   The Cleo Amphitheater
Mickey Mouse   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, TR   The Cleo Amphitheater
East Comfort Route   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Cleopatra's Needle
Southeast Arete   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Cleopatra's Needle
Northwest Side   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, TR   Cleopatra's Needle
The Queens Clam   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   The Cleo Amphitheater
Cleo's Needle Southwest Dihedral   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Cleopatra's Needle
Cleos Needle-Southwest Rib   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Cleopatra's Needle
Fritz   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR   Wiessner Wall
Turk's Head Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 7 pitches, 500'   Turk's Head
Wiessner Face   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 40'   Wiessner Wall
Barndoor   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   The Cleo Amphitheater
Queen's Face   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR   The Cleo Amphitheater
A Point of Balance   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 40'   Turk's Head
Missing Link   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   The Cleo Amphitheater
Between the Queens   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 70'   The Cleo Amphitheater
The Green Slime   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Turk's Head
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in West Bluff - Cleo Amphitheater

Featured Route For West Bluff - Cleo Amphitheater
Rock Climbing Photo: The start, and lower half, of the Southeast Arete.

Southeast Arete 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Cleopatra's Needle
This is a climb in two parts. The lower arete has very little gear ... but good gear where you step up around the overlap, and huge holds everywhere else. Once on the ledge at mid-height, walk over to the summit block. There is decent gear again for the final few moves, where you are feeling most exposed....[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

Photos of West Bluff - Cleo Amphitheater Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cleo's
BETA PHOTO: Cleo's
Rock Climbing Photo: Cleo's zoomed in from the Monolith.
Cleo's zoomed in from the Monolith.
Rock Climbing Photo: Clockwise in the highlighted area are the Cleo Amp...
BETA PHOTO: Clockwise in the highlighted area are the Cleo Amp...

Comments on West Bluff - Cleo Amphitheater Add Comment
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By Tradoholic
Jul 7, 2009
The parking lot described in "Getting There" is now paved.