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West Arete 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 170'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: George Zack, Ethan Vella - May 2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 386
Submitted By: George Zack on May 9, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: West Arete route topo

Description 

A must-do route for the 5.10 climber at Chimney Rocks. A long, aesthetic, moderate arete with steep cruxes and fantastic exposure.

A low crux through the first two bolts continues into 100' of 5.8 climbing up the left side of the arete. Continue up the short, easy section of lower angle broken slab before stepping around to the right side of the arete once vertical again. Enjoy the exposure up the slightly overhung high crux, then finish off the route with 40' of sub-5.8 climbing to the anchor.

Descent: Scramble 40' east across the top of the pinnacle to the rap anchor and make a 80' rappel down the East side.

Location 

Start from the top of the large detached block at the base of the West side of the pinnacle by walking into the "chasm" on the SW side of the pinnacle and then ascending the easy 15' chimney.

Protection 

Bolted anchors at both the base and top of route. 14 bolts on route. An optional .3 Camalot near the base of the broken slab helps to protect a runout over easy terrain.

Due to the length and course of the route, several alpine draws and a couple long slings are required to avoid bad rope drag. Especially important is that the first two bolts after the slab be extended with a 4' and 2' sling, respectively. If placed, the optional cam should also be extended with a 4' sling.


Photos of West Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Thompson contemplating the upper crux on the ...
Dave Thompson contemplating the upper crux on the ...

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By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Jun 29, 2016
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun route. Long! I used all regular draws, and it certainly created rope drag at the top, but doable.
By George Zack
From: Orting, WA
Jun 29, 2016

Right on Micah, thanks for your input. I recommend that that first couple of bolts after the slab be extended, not so much of concern for unmanageable rope drag, but because doing so keeps your rope off of some particularly sharp edges if you were to fall in the upper crux. I'm pretty paranoid about ropes cutting...

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