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Werner's Wiggle 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 230'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Werner Braun (Aug '69)
Page Views: 1,051
Submitted By: Bryan G on Sep 28, 2011

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Unlike the Left Water Crack, Werner's Wiggle doesn't actually require any wiggling. Just pure slab climbing up the narrow groove to the right of the Water Cracks and Head Rush.

Rope up at an indistinct point on the slab below and start climbing up 4th class towards the left side of a flake. Plug some gear in the flake (.75" cams or med nuts) and the climb up to a bolted anchor on a ledge.

A series of "steps" in the groove lead up to the first bolt. At this point, leave the polished groove in favor of better friction out on the face to the right. Then join the groove again at the second bolt and follow it past a 3rd bolt to the top.

From the top of the second pitch it is just barely possible to rap the route with one 70m rope. Using a 70 I was also able to lead this in one pitch.


Protection 

Bolts with a little bit of .5-.75" gear.


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