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Werner's Ant Trees 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: W. Braun, J. Coe, and J. Anderson, August 1970
Page Views: 2,291
Submitted By: Sirius on Apr 14, 2007

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 


Begin up blocky rock to gain a clean, right-angling fingers/lieback ramp (.10a). Follow this ramp until a sequence of face moves up and left of the crack comes into view, near the top of the ramp. Move up through these crux face moves past a bolt (if it's there; rumor of it being chopped as of late '06/early '07?) and around a series of minor roofs. Either belay at pin with additional gear, or continue up easier terrain to the upper pitches of The Surprise (gear anchor).

Combining this pitch with the last two pitches of the Surprise makes for an excellent 3-pitch, 5.10 affair, and is sooo recommended.

Location 

Approach as for Commmitment, continue past the Surprise ~40 ft until you find the obvious ramp start to WAT.

Protection 

Doubles to 2", single 3" if continuing up The Surpise.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 12, 2017
By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 22, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

We didn't see any bolts and personally I found the pro where you move left a the expanding flake a bit sketchy, hence my R rating. Excellent Eldo-esque climbing. I agree, it seems a logical start to the Surprise and makes for an amazing 2-3 pitch climb.
By Dennis
Mar 11, 2008

Great fun. I spent too much time looking for a bolt that isn't there to begin the traverse. Look for a pod/jug. This is where you go left. Bring small nuts or cams to protect the crux traverse, though your gear will be more psychological than protective.

Also, chopped bolt at the optional first belay (70'). Only a piton and 1-4" cracks a plenty for gear. Better yet, continue another 70' for a better belay stance.

Great way to start Surprise!
By ccmski body
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 17, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Climbed this in early Oct 09- bolt is not there. a #1 BD C3 gives some psychological protection on this crux traverse. Linked this pitch to Suprise for a stellar 4 star 2 pitch linkup (we had a 70m rope). Highly recommended.
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Nov 8, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Not R, but kinda scary after moving out of the .10a lieback into the .10c section. Definitely no bolt, but there was a fixed nut, which my partner removed. There are other spots for small gear or nuts (I used a green c3) in a small pod to the climbers left (after moving out left from the lieback section).

Great pitch overall, great liebacking and fun face moves with good rests in between. A great first pitch variation to the surprise.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Nov 18, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

No bolt but the thing laces up with great small nuts, so bring plenty. Probably not .10c either.
By Zachary W
From: San Francisco, California
Jan 24, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Still no bolt as of 1/2014. Crux moves are spicy with thin pro in expanding flakes, but it definitely feels easier than 10c. Linking this into The Surprise makes for the best route at FOB!
By Quan
Oct 28, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Exceptional pitch of climbing. If the lieback would have lasted longer I'd have given it four stars.
Lieback section is fun and maybe a little soft for the grade. Don't let the 10c rating of the crux scare you off; it protects well with nuts and the movement is fantastic. I'd definitely choose this variation again over the original start of The Surprise.
By Crimpanzee Shortt
From: San Francisco, California
Nov 9, 2015
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

IMHO:
-The lieback 10a section to start is pretty mellow.
-The 10c crux isn't that hard if you have a sporty/boulderer mentality. However, with only one thin, expanding flake to protect, it can be scary. Beta spray: A #.3 X4/C4 will protect well in this thing, but it will give up your best handhold. There's a good left hand once you pull the roof/bulge, but you can't easily see it.
-The huge 5.8 pitch to the ledge with a bolt felt like 5.9 to me in places, and is just really long and sustained.
-The crux of the route for me the is "The Surprise", when the 10a crack moves left and gets really thin or ends. Really hard even following this, but maybe I didn't go the best way.
-Might be the best route at FOB!
By aaizumi
Jul 15, 2016

Dear mountain project,

I had a ground fall at the Crux due to dirty rock and unavailable gear.

If you climb this route and find 2 cams please contact me:
Andrewizumi@yahoo.com

It would be very nice to have this gear back.

Thank you, and please be careful with this route. It should have a pg13 or R rating.

- Andrew
By Phillip Bay
From: San Francisco, California
May 5, 2017

The route is definitely a little dirty because it doesn't see that much traffic, but the gear is all there, I wouldn't give it a PG13. No bolt at the roof moves, but I found a bomber .3 camalot to protect the move left around the roof. The rest was awesome!
By Sean Wenrick
From: lemoore,CA
May 12, 2017

I've spoken to aaizumi and concluded that he was either off route or on a completely different route all together when he fell. I don't think this route warrants a PG-13 or R rating either, it protects just fine. Werner's Ant tree is my favorite route at the Yosemite falls area and doesn't seem to hard for the 10c rating it's given.

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